Trossachs - An alternative Christmas

With the COVID travel restrictions eased for Christmas Day and my decision made to not mix with other households, an alternative Christmas beckoned in the hills, especially as tighter restrictions were moving in from Boxing Day. So my extended household and I headed to the Trossachs. 

We arrived into a cold, grey day with a ceiling of low cloud that blocked out the sun and kept the day in a perpetual twilight, so characteristic of this time of year. Throughout our walk showers of fine rain would gather in the west around the slopes of Ben Venue then sweep east across the valley, soaking our jackets, trousers and rucksacks but leaving sparkling beads of water on tree twigs. As the weather shifted at moments, huge banks of dense, white mist billowed up the valley like a slow-moving avalanche and we watched it, mesmerised. But splashes of colour were added to this dreich day by the birch trees and the withered bracken. Of course, this is the kind of day I love when the elements are all around me.

Our walk climbed steeply from the shore of Loch Vennachar on a path that was heavily iced up. This was welcome because the wet second half of the year has turned everywhere to bog but the frozen ground was much easier to walk on. Mind you, there were still some pockets of unfrozen ground and it was impossible to tell until you stepped onto the boggy bits if they were frozen and would hold your weight. On this icy path, we ascended up through beautiful oak and birch woods, eventually popping out above the trees into what felt like a secret world, hidden up in the mist.

Our route made a high traverse west next, through a pleasant landscape of heathery knolls, to eventually emerge above Glen Finglas. The sun very briefly broke through the clouds here and illuminated the woods that carpeted the hillside, bringing out the purple and orange hues of the winter trees. Two deer ran by and a snipe exploded from the undergrowth. We dropped down the hill now to briefly pick up the glen road and walk by the cottages that we’d seen from the hill above. Their chimneys puffed smoke from cosy fires inside. 

A network of trails took us back through the woods and to the water’s edge at Loch Vennachar. We walked through Little Druim Wood on the way which was dotted with art sculptures including a beautiful deer whose open metal structure seemed to emerge from the forest itself. 

At the loch shore, I pitched the outer cover of one of my tents to make a shelter from the rain and laid out a groundsheet for sitting on. Here we watched what daylight there was fade into night. The geese out on the water were the only sound that drifted to us as we cooked a Christmas dinner on our camp stoves – soup with bread, curry with rice and tea with Christmas cake. 

Then it was time to pack up and walk back through the night-time woods. 

Fact File
Start/finish: Woodlands Trust visitor centre Glen Finglas near Brig o'Turk
Public transport: In normal times and not on Christmas Day, I take a bus from Stirling to Callander and use the Great Trossachs Path to reach Glen Finglas.
Route: Centre is closed currently due to Covid but there are numerous paths and routes in the area detailed on noticeboards outside or here.

Hillwalking for the non car owner

A few weeks ago I was interviewed virtually by one of Scotland's best known outdoor writers who goes under the name Munro Moonwalker. A chance comment by me on his Facebook page about accessing the hills without a car seemed to strike a chord and he made contact for more information about my experiences. I've never owned a car so all my solo hillwalking and cycling trips are done by public transport. Even the majority of trips with friends will use buses and trains as we find this much more enjoyable. I originally replicated on my own blog the answers I collated, especially as they didn't all appear in the article. However, I've since agreed that the information I provided can be used for an article in the Munro Society Journal. So I'll just give a flavour in this blog and include some of my photos that I submitted to accompany the material.

My most important reason for never owning a car and using boot, bike, bus and train to get around is an environmental one. The main source of air pollution in this country is transport and the majority of vehicles emitting that pollution are individual cars. All that pollution contributes to ill health and climate change. Public transport is still associated with emissions of course but it's a more efficient way of moving people around. The huge volume of cars on our roads now is also the main reason people quote for not travelling actively by bicycle or walking, so it's a double whammy for poor health. Supporting rural train and bus services is important as well to ensure they are kept running for those who depend on them.

The other reason for not owning a car is simply that I enjoy life so much without one. In terms of hillwalking, it can be challenging getting to some hills by public transport or bicycle but this makes things more rewarding and forces you to be creative in how you go about things. I think it also improves your planning and risk assessments as there is no easy escape home if a storm is moving in and the last bus has left. Likewise, you don't have the security of a car at the bottom of the hill. The train especially is such a relaxing way to travel as you can chat with friends or watch the scenery and enjoy a cup of tea from the trolley service. The bus is great for wherever the train doesn't reach and bus drivers can be really helpful about dropping you right at the start of a walk. Both of these open up great possibilities for through routes, where you start and finish at different places because you don't have to get back to wherever you've parked a car.

Overall, it just feels the right thing to do and I believe I'm happier and healthier for not owning a car.

Corrour Station: a favourite spot for jumping off the train in the middle of the hills.

Drumochter: I climbed the Drumochter Munros using the train to Dalwhinnie then the folding bike to bridge the gap between the train station and the start of the walk.

Achnashellach is another favourite station that gives good access to Torridon to the north or the Monar Munros to the south.

Caledonian Canal: I used the canal towpath and a kick scooter to get form the train at Banavie to the Loch Lochy Munros.