Cairngorms - Ne'er cast a clout

The wind at the north and east,
Was never good for man nor beast.
So never think to cast a clout,
Until the month of May be out.

Ne'er cast a clout is a wonderful old saying that is so very true. It means don't pack your winter clothes away until May is over. Many people believe "May" refers to the mayflower or hawthorn rather than the month itself as hawthorn blossoms in May. Either way, the phrase was in my mind for this early May backpacking trip to the Cairngorms. It was very cold for the season!

My trip started out of Braemar with a wonderful walk west through the fabulous Morrone Birkwood. Here a little path meanders through the spring birch trees and all the while you are gazing to the distant horizon to the glimmering, snow-streaked Cairngorms.

The birch woods then give way to the Scots pine woods on the Mar Lodge estate which is owned by the National Trust for Scotland. They are doing a fabulous job rewilding the place. Every time I visit, the little pine trees seem to have crept higher and higher up the hillside. It was a decent way up Carn na Criche before I climbed passed the last of the trees.

I love the top of Carn na Criche for some strange reason. I'm not sure why as it's not a significant peak for hereabouts. It's a steady pull then a pleasant amble on a carpet of wind-clipped turf across high, open ground to the top. It feels wild, remote and lonely. I always have the place to myself. And as I so often say, it's a small peak but slightly isolated from the larger peaks all around so it has an uninterrupted panoramic view. Just as I was approaching the top, a squall of snow blew in and I was glad I was wearing my "clout".

I dropped off the northeast shoulder of the hill, a rough, boggy walk, to pick up a path through to Glen Gairn. It passes through an atmospheric cleft in the hills which is un-named on the OS map though I call it Ouzel Pass because in summer there are abundant ring ouzels here. The ring ouzel is similar to a blackbird but has a necklace of white feathers and likes higher, rockier places. The pass is perfect for them. As usual, their distinctive calls echoed from the rock walls as I walked through the pass. 

It's such an atmospheric place with steep scree slopes and a floor jumbled by huge boulders. A little stream meanders through and is a pleasant companion for a slow saunter. Evening was moving in now and I was ready to make my second camp of the trip. I made sure I was well beyond the ring ouzels before pitching.

It was a bitterly cold night and I woke in the morning to a frozen tent. But the day had dawned bright and calm, perfect for a climb up Ben Avon. Having previously climbed Ben Avon via the bealach between it and Beinn a'Bhuird, I chose a different route this time. The map showed a path leaving Glen Gairn and ascending beside the Allt an Eas Mhoir. I chose this route and it was beautiful. The river, swollen by snow melt and sparkled by the sun, tumbled down from the plateau above. Its gully was still filled with deep snow in places. Here and there the river had carved snow tunnels which always fascinate me. Up ahead the snow became more extensive, eventually broadening out into a large snowfield. Then two golden eagles appeared overhead, circling silently above me for several minutes. It was wild and magical. Soon I found myself walking across the large snowfield on the plateau itself. What a place that day. The rocky tor on Ben Avon's summit rose dramatically above the snow, weak sun filtered through the clouds and I had the place to myself.

I could see the weather was changing though with a front moving in from the west. I ate lunch quickly among the cold stacks of rocks on the summit then descended, using the bealach route to come down. Even here, there were deep gullies of snow to cross and fragile snow bridges over the streams.

It had been a beautiful walk that day on Ben Avon and, content with at least one mountain day, I spent the next couple of days enjoying the pinewoods. It's so wonderful to wander slowly through this old place, to hear the wind in the trees, the gush of the river and the bird song of spring. It's totally rejuvenating. 

I lingered a while at the Linn of Quoich and the Punchbowl, the hollowed-out rock feature in the river. It was lovely to see the little lodge here had been renovated by the National Trust and unlocked for you to have a wee nosey inside. It's said Queen Victoria took her picnics here.

A after a good poke around the pinewoods, it was time to retrace my steps to Braemar. A chilly north wind blew through the village while I was waiting for my bus home and I was glad again that I hadn't "cast my clout".

Fact File:
All the photos on Flickr

Start/finish: Braemar
Public transport: Train to Dundee then the Ember Dundee to Aberdeen bus via Braemar.
My route: West from Braemar through Morrone Birkwood. The end of the path connects to a forest trail which eventually joins the wee road from Braemar to Linn of Dee. A short walk along this quiet road took me to Victoria Bridge which enabled me to cross the Dee onto the Mar Lodge estate. After the bridge, I took the forest track to the right which eventually connects with the track up Glen Quoich and to the Linn of Quoich. Crossed the Quoich at the Punchbowl and took the track heading north behind the wee lodge. After a stream crossing, a fainter track leaves it to the right to climb the hill and soon a small path leaves this track. It climbs most of the way to the top of Carn na Criche before turning south. It's pathless to the top then down the other side as well to join the path that comes up from Gleann an t-Slugain. Followed this path north before the taking path to the south of Carn Eag Dubh into Glen Gairn. Climbed Ben Avon via the path on the OS marked beside Allt an Eas Mhoir and descended via the path further west beside Glas Allt Mor. Passed back over Carn na Criche (cos I do love that hill!) and wandered the pinewoods of Glen Quoich and through Clais Fhearnaig before retracing my steps to Braemar.

Highlands - Winter into spring

A cluster of trips through February to April marked the transition in the year from winter into spring; from the quiet months into the months filled with bird song. Two of the trips were well worn routes for me and my friend but one of them was something new.

The usual walk from the train at Rannoch through to Corrour along the Road to the Isles marked the last cold trip of the year, although there wasn't much snow evident on the hills. We had a short walk the first day, just a couple of hours or so from Rannoch. The cheap train tickets were on so weren't bothered that we didn't make a full day of it. 

The tents were pitched on a lovely, flat shelf of grass beside the Allt Eigeach with a view to the Bridge of Orchy hills. I'd last used the spot 13 years ago with my good friend, Bart. It was winter then but with more snow on the hills as was the case in times of old. 

It was a lovely walk the next day in weak winter sunshine through to Loch Ossian, Corrour and the train home.

March (and still cheap train tickets) provided the opportunity to climb a wee hill above Newtonmore that was new to me. As we walked in along Glen Banchor, the natural world was coming alive with bird song in the woods and frogs mating in the pools and puddles. 

It was a stiff pull up the wee hill as there was not much of path. I guess not a lot of people walk this way. The glen may have shifted into spring but it was still winter on the tops with a bitter wind blowing through. The same wind was hellbent on pulling out our tent pegs during the night.

April then saw a short trip to a favourite camp spot in the woods above Mill Dam to the north of Dunkeld. I love this spot because it's completely hidden but sits on a wee knoll at the edge of woods with a lovely view over the varied landscape spread out below. 

The walking routes to get there are all lovely in spring sunshine and at this time of year, are dotted with the first of the wildflowers. 

I also love it because the bird song in spring is superb and most of the trip is simply spent lying in the tent listening to it. Particularly vocal this time was a song thrush right above the tents and at dusk, a roding woodcock making its strange quack-like call as it flew round its territory.

Speyside -The light fantastic

This was a short overnight trip tagged onto another with a later train popping me out at Newtonmore for the walk through to Kingussie. The timing turned out to be perfect as the afternoon light was softening and spreading over hills hanging onto the last of their winter snows.

The pull up from Newtonmore soon opened up the view across a landscape of winter fields and bare birch woods to the snow-covered Feshie hills. Coire Gharbhlach drew the eye, a huge bite out of the mountainside. The sun was still in its low winter arc and casting a warm light so that last year's grasses and bracken were with tinged with gold. 

The high path headed east, the track ahead rising and falling over the moor with its route picked out in snow. My walk was a slow saunter, sucking in the views and the fading atmosphere of winter. Wondering where the time had gone; the season seems to have flown by too quickly. I already can't wait for the cold and the dark to return later in the year. Spring and autumn I'll enjoy before then but for me, summer is something that has to be endured.

By the time I'd mulled all this over, the path had reached Loch Gynack, narrowed and entered the beautiful birch woods up here. The gnarly old trunks cast shadows across the route and the finer branches gave the place a subtle purple tinge. 

I was now on the hunt for a new camping spot. I'd used a few places in this area but none of them ideal. I crossed the Gynack Burn and wandered up through the woods on the other side before emerging again onto open moorland. Following a fainter track downhill on a whim took me to the most perfect tent pitch. A lovely shelf of flat grass had a panoramic view across the Spey Valley to the Feshie hills, their rounded outlines creating huge domes of snow. Dense snow showers moved across the landscape engulfing one hill after the next and the late afternoon sun played on the hillsides with an ephemeral light show. But as the sun sank further, the softness and richness of the dying light was beautiful.

A cold night followed with the temperature dipping below zero. Breakfast was eaten watching the sun's morning light show. It lit up the Feshie hills from behind and looked like a wild fire was rampaging across the top of the snow slopes. 

I packed up a frosty tent and walked down into Kingussie. It had been a short trip but it made the best of the fantastic light.

Fact File
Start: Newtonmore train station
Finish: Kingussie train station

Public transport: Edinburgh/Glasgow to Inverness trains stop at Newtonmore and Kingussie
My route: Out of the train station walked up to the main street in Newtonmore and turned right. Almost at the end of the village, took Strone Road up to the left. It climbs then swings left and then left again - here a track leaves it to head north. This is the route through to Kingussie via Loch Gynack and is signed at a few points.

Perthshire - Snowshoe sequel

I don't know exactly what it is about snowshoes that create an incredible sense of fun out in the snow. Perhaps it's the joy of the easy movement they afford across the winter landscape or the fear they banish of post-holing thigh deep in a snow drift. Whichever it is, this return visit to Blair Atholl was a huge amount of fun with the snowshoes.

We walked out of the village via Old Blair and soon strapped the snowshoes on as we started to ascend the forest tracks. There had been a little more snow since our visit the previous weekend. Soon we were free of the trees and picking our way up deeper snow, aiming for a modest wee hill above the village. 

We threaded our way up banks of snow to eventually arrive beside the summit cairn. There were more limited views this weekend but we did see a huge herd of deer pouring over the higher hills behind us. By the time we had dropped back down to where we'd left our camping kit, the light was already leaving the short winter day. But we'd planned a night time walk anyway to a camp spot at the head of Glen Banvie. 

We set out with just enough daylight to see by in the woods. As we left the trees and passed into the open glen, the snow reflected what light there was and the hills were bathed in a silky pale light. Without a drop of wind, the landscape and the evening were magical. Before too long, we did have to put on our headtorches. The beams shone a few metres ahead of us as we walked on through the snow and were now the only light in the pitch darkness. We were walking Comyn's Road, part of an old military route and even under snow, the path was easy to follow. I also knew well the camp spot we were aiming for, having used it a few times before. So when we re-entered woods, I knew we were almost there. It was funny how much further the miles seemed in the darkness though. By 6pm we were clearing snow and pitching the tents, leaving the evening ahead for a production line of hot chocolate, soup, mains then tea with Christmas cake. 

Next day, the morning light revealed the beauty of our camp spot as the tents nestled among snow-plastered pines. After the morning production line of coffee, porridge and more coffee, we walked back to Blair Atholl via a more southerly loop.

Fact File
Start/finish: Blair Atholl
Public Transport: Edinburgh to Inverness train
My route: Riverside path along River Tilt then back road to Old Blair. At the crossroads, took the track heading northwest on the north side of Banvie Burn. After about 1km another track joins it from the right. Took this track up through the woods and onto the open hillside, climbing an outlying top of Meall Reamhar. Returned to the track junction, continued northwest, crossed the river by the next bridge and followed the track northwest on the south side of the Banvie Burn. This can be followed in a loop to the head of Glen Banvie then south towards the Falls of Bruar before turning east back to Old Blair. 

Review of the snowshoes I used HERE.

Perthshire - Winter wander/wonder

Decent amounts of snow finally arrived with the new year. There was no need to travel further than Perthshire to enjoy it, so this winter wander started from the train at Blair Atholl. 

A light covering of snow made for a pretty walk north through the woods of Glen Tilt and for beautiful views to Carn a'Chlamian where the trees opened up. Tornadoes of spindrift raced across the higher slopes and though we didn't realise it then, this was a portent of the afternoon to come. 

We peeled off from Glen Tilt and in deeper snow trekked out through the forest to follow the Allt Slanaidh north. Where the trail climbed and left the trees, the world around us was wild. A bitter wind scoured the moors, clearing the trail of snow and though a late afternoon sun sent some rays our way, there was not a drop of warmth in them. 

We reached our intended camp for the night at a lonely, wooden hut but failed to find a place where we could get tent pegs into the permafrost that the ground had become. It would have been a miserable night up there anyway in those winds. So in failing light, we turned around and descended back to the woods, finding a lovely spot for the tents among tall pines.

But it was the second day that provided a walk through a winter wonderland. Fresh snow had fallen overnight. It filled in the woodland trails and plastered the tree branches. A weak winter sun pulled itself above the hills and brought the whole place alive in low angled light and shadows. 

We wandered for hours, enjoying the beauty of the snow-covered landscape and listening to our footsteps squeak in the powdery snow. A stream choked with icicles tumbled gently down from the hill above into a frozen pond. A little way further on our trail crossed an open field. Here the wind barreled through and the snow had drifted onto the path, giving the place a wild, boreal feel to it. Behind us, the graceful arc of Carn Liath appeared briefly from snow clouds.

Then our view opened up more widely and a landscape of winter farms was laid out before us with Ben Vrackie rising above. There are few things more lovely I think than rolling, snow-covered fields. 

The failing light of a short, winter day caught us again as we dropped back into Blair Atholl. The charm of the village Christmas tree in the snow softened the blow of a wonderful day coming to an end. We didn't know then that there would be an equally wonderful sequel.

Fact File
More photos on Flickr

Start/finish: Blair Atholl train station
Public transport: Glasgow/Edinburgh to Inverness train
My route: Out of the station turned right along the main road and picked up the Glen Tilt path just before the road bridge over the river. Left the main track up the glen to ascend to the Jubilee Range then joined the track northwest along the Allt Slanaidh, turning back at the hut. Next day, followed the tracks through Blairuachdar Wood, Glen Banvie and the Whim.

Cairngorms - Through the foothills

The Cairngorms massif is an extensive plateau, dotted by distinct up-swellings that form the named peaks and cut through by deep, rocky defiles that have provided corridors through the mountains for millenia. To the north of the main massif is a cluster of lesser peaks that I always think of as the foothills of the Cairngorms as they form gentler ground that transitions from the mountains to the Spey Valley and Aviemore below. On this trip, with gales scouring the higher tops, a wander through these foothills proved a good alternative. 

We set out from the ski centre down the Allt Mor path, meandering through the pines to cross the river at the bridge. I love the path onwards from here. You climb back up above the trees and walk along a ridge towards the Chalamain Gap with the Northern Corries stretched out on your left. Today the corries were dusted with snow and afternoon sun picked out the contours of the crumpled land at their feet. A medley of light and shadow.

We skipped the bouldery traverse of the Chalamain Gap on this occasion, instead climbing steeply onto the little peak above, Creag A'Chalamain. This is one of the foothills that is really rewarding for its views of the surrounding mountains and the distinctive, wooded cut of Ryvoan Pass to the east. The sun was sinking now and the afternoon light over the views was soft and golden. 

Ahead in shadow was the deep cut of the Lairig Ghru pass and our path down to the crossing point of the Allt Druidh. It's here that the river flows beneath the giant boulders that you step over, making for an easy crossing. We dropped down steeply. The Lairig Ghru rose above us now, its foreboding rock walls and boulder-strewn bottom turned into a monochrome landscape by the snow. All the more delightful then to see a pair of brightly coloured bullfinches flitting about here in contrast to the brutal architecture of the pass. A little way down the river on the other side, we found our camp spot for the night. It was a place we'd used before and we were glad we knew it was there as the light was fading fast. 

Next day, we continued through the foothills and pulled ourselves up onto Carn Odhar which rose above our camp spot of the night before. What a place this was on that day. Low cloud smothered the higher peaks, sleety rain blew through and the atmosphere was bleak, barren and empty. Just the way I like it! The top of Carn Odhar came easily after the initial steep pull above the river though the crossing of the outflow from a cluster of lochans up here proved tricky.

We walked on across rough, pathless terrain, crossing the south shoulder of Carn Eilrig, another foothill. As the sleet had turned to rain and intensified, we decided to skip the climb up the hill and instead headed south to pick up the Beanaidh Beag which flows from one of Braeriach's corries high above. After more rough walking, we eventually picked up a semblance of a path that delivered us onto the main track through Gleann Eanaich. Where we met the pine woods, we pitched the tents, glad to be out of the rain and warming up with hot chocolate. 

At some point in the night, that rain turned to light snow so our morning camp spot was dusted in white. It formed a soft carpet and a magical atmosphere for the rest of the walk out to Coylumbridge. 

Fact File

Start: Cairngorm ski centre
Finish: Coylumbridge
Public transport: Train from Edinburgh to Aviemore. Local bus, number 30, from Aviemore outside the railway station to the ski centre. Our timings were lucky so we also jumped on the bus back at Coylumbridge, cutting out a bit of the walk into Aviemore.
My route: From the ski centre took the Allt Mor path down to the bridge over the river. At time of writing, a notice advised there was a landslip on the path. We had no difficulty crossing this. Followed the path on the other side of the bridge towards the Chalamain Gap, veering off at the start of the Gap to climb Creag A'Chalamain then rejoining the path on the far side. This path descends to the crossing of the Allt Druidh below the Lairig Ghru. No paths for the next section. We climbed the hillside on the other side of the river, arriving at Lochan Odhar then walked north to Carn Odhar. Then headed southwest to meet the Beanaidh Beag and followed it down into Gleann Eanaich to join the main track through the glen. This continues eventually to Coylumbridge.

Perthshire - The Mini Cateran Trail

This post is not sponsored by Ember, the electric bus company, but its new service from Dundee to Aberdeen via Braemar made this trip finally happen. The Mini Cateran Trail is an official shorter loop of the main Cateran Trail within its northern section. It connects Spittal of Glenshee, Lair, Kirkmichael and Enochdhu. A previously complex arrangement of buses at inconvenient times had left me gazing longingly at the map of the trail but unable to get there. However, the new Ember service really opens up the Glen Shee area to non car users. For me coming from Edinburgh, it's now easy - a train to Dundee then step outside the station for the bus pick up. It's been years since I was able to get to Glen Shee so heading off for this trip, I was excited to go somewhere that I really didn't know that well.

We took the afternoon bus out of Dundee which put us at Spittal of Glenshee late afternoon. It was a pleasant bus journey, especially as we got further north where the hills crowded in and the road became more twisty. The driver told us that the bus can do 300 miles on one charge. We thought this was amazing until he told us that new buses will be coming in the future that can do 600 miles on one charge. At the Spittal, we stepped off the bus straight onto the trail. In October the days are getting short so we only had a couple of hours of light left in the day. But the last of the sun bathed the glen in soft, golden light. 

A cold north wind pushed at our backs as we walked south through Glen Shee and light snow flurries piled through. The trail meandered through a mosaic of farms, fields and little woods. It was really charming and felt like a secretive world bypassed by those who simply drive through the glen to get to the ski centre or beyond. It is largely working farmland though so we chose our tent pitch carefully, tucked away in a quiet corner at the edge of a wood. 

As it wasn't a wilderness camp, we were up and out early the next day. The trail continued down the glen, meandering between farms and along the edge of a wood before dropping down to Cray and then the main road at Lair. We swapped the main Cateran Trail now for the Mini Trail linking path over the hills to Kirkmichael. Heavy rain had settled in for the day.

This was a wilder and rougher section with barely a path, more a suggestion of where others had walked before. As the route wound its way through these quiet hills, it was easy to imagine the Caterans afoot in this landscape. Cateran is derived from the Gaelic word for warrior but in the 16th and 17th centuries it was used to describe the livestock thieves that operated in this area. After two or three hours of rough walking in pouring rain, we were glad to descend to Kirkmichael and find its little shop open. This post is also not sponsored by the Kirkmichael Village Shop but I can tell you it was a real treat to get inside for hot drinks, a warm lunch and respite from the rain. What a treasure this wee shop is.

At Kirkmichael we rejoined the main Cateran Trail and turned north through woods and fields to the sleepy hamlet of Enochdhu. The old Kindrogan Bridge took us over the River Ardle to start the biggest climb of the trip up to An Lairig, the high pass that would take us back over to Spittal of Glenshee. We didn't push on that far though but stopped for the night at an open glade in the forestry.

The last day of walking was kinder to us and dawned with sunny, blue skies. After packing up the tents, we continued the climb up towards An Lairig. There was a treat before we got there though as we came upon the Lunch Hut. Built in the 1950s for shooting parties, it's now open for walkers to use as a day shelter. We lingered here over a second morning coffee, enjoying the peace and quiet of the place before the final pull to the top of the pass. 

Back on the trail, our path steepened as it approached the top and a shower of wet snow blew quickly through. The pass, like so many places in the area, has a story about Queen Victoria associated with it. It's said that in 1865 she was passing this way by horseback and the party stopped at the top of the pass to have tea. However, the kettle had been forgotten and one had to be fetched from the Spittal, quite a long way below. 

We dropped down steeply towards the Spittal ourselves, passing from sun into the shade of the north side of the hills. Here the trail was again really pretty as it followed an old, drystone wall beside a stream that steepened into a tree-lined gorge. Soon we were back in Spittal of Glenshee and waiting for our Ember bus home.

It was dark for the return bus journey which made it feel like a little adventure charging through the countryside in the black of night. At one point, shouts of "ooooh" went up at the front of the bus as the headlights caught an owl on the road ahead. The owl made it ... and so did we, back to Dundee for a train the rest of the way home.

Fact File
Start/finish: Spittal of Glenshee
Public transport: Train to Dundee then Ember bus outside the train station to Aberdeen via Braemar.
Route: The main Cateran Trail is picked up immediately opposite where the bus stops. It is signed and easy to follow to where it joins the B951 just after Dalnagar Castle. Here we left the main trail by turning right down the B road to Cray and then Lair. Where the B road meets the A93 at Lair, the footpath to Kirkmichael is signed opposite the junction. The first half to Kirkmichael is pretty rough and boggy but there are marker posts to guide you at least. From Kirkmichael we rejoined the main Cateran Trail which is well signed back to the Spittal.