Black Hill - As good as it gets

This was the first time that I'd been up Black Hill, a small, rounded peak in the Pentland Hills to the south of Edinburgh. The walk was planned simply as a new route to explore, given that I'm still limited to these local hills under the ongoing Covid restrictions. Surprisingly, it turned out to be one of the most beautiful days I've spent in the hills.

Our route started by walking into the hills via the steep road from Threipmuir Reservoir. The snow-dusted branches of the trees either side made a tangled archway for our send off. As soon as we gained a little height, the view opened up and we could see the morning sun catching the tops of snow-plastered hills all around. And they were really plastered. It's been a few years since I've seen so much snow here in the Pentlands. At the top of the road, we struck out briefly across open moor before dropping down into the tight valley below Hare Hill. It was cold here, out of the sun, and the snow was dry and firm enough to crunch under our boots. 

Before we dropped down to The Howe, we picked up the line of an old stone wall that took us up to its high point on the flank of Black Hill. We peeled off from the wall here, picking our way through deep drifts to gain more height. We were still in shade as was the southern ridge of the Pentlands at our back. West Kip, East Kip, Scald Law and Carnethy formed a long line of Alpine-like peaks reaching into an Alpine-like blue sky. 

As we pulled up onto the south shoulder of Black Hill, we emerged into the sun. The full panorama of the winter wonderland was stretched out before us now and we stood there in awe, barely able to take it all in. We could see northeast towards Allermuir with its neighbouring cluster of hills and as far west as East Cairn Hill, where we'd been a few weeks before. All around us, the snow sparkled in the sunshine and made these modest hills look so incredibly beautiful. On top of all this, there was not a breath of wind, a rare occurrence on a Scottish hill. I couldn't help thinking this is as good as it gets ... in lockdown at least!

We walked north, ascending a steeper section before gaining the flat plateau that is the top of Black Hill. We wandered slowly across the top and were in no rush. We wanted to breathe it all in and make the moment last as long as possible. 

Eventually we started to drop off the far side, down into Den's Cleugh where a grouse butt provided a back rest for an early lunch. After food and flasks of hot coffee, we continued down to the lovely pass at Black Springs, a quiet route that sneaks around the north side of the hill. We were returned to cold shade here as the sun would never reach this place on its low winter arc.  

The route through here returned us to our start point via the track along the shores of Threipmuir Reservoir. We gazed across its frozen waters, soaking up the last of the views as Black Hill rose above us. Too often in normal times, we ignore these local hills in favour of bigger Highland peaks but today they'd given us a stunning trip in the hills.

Fact File

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Start/finish: Threipmuir road end

Public transport: Lothian Buses no. 44 (requires a walk from the terminus in Balerno to the road end)

My route: Continued up the road beyond the Threipmuir car park and turned left at the top of the hill, passed Bavelaw Castle as the road swings to the right. Through the gate ahead then followed the path that runs east below Hare Hill. Immediately after a fenced area of regenerating woodland, went through the gate and followed a stone wall up to the left. Left it at its high point to gain the south flank of Black Hill. All the way over the top of Black Hill heading northeast then started to drop into Den's Cleugh but swung left to turn west back towards Threipmuir along the bottom of Black Hill. This route reaches a small dam which I crossed then followed the track on the other side back to the start.

Edinburgh - Ski Porty

If I was feeling frustration about not getting to all the snow up north these last few weeks, then that vanished a week ago when the snow arrived here in Portobello. It came in decent amounts too that transformed the local landscapes and gave me several days of good skiing. Of course, it came on a Monday and the skiing had to be fitted in before and after work for the rest of the week but I'm not complaining. In fact, getting out early morning meant that I could ski on unblemished snow after the overnight falls.

I love it at times like this when there is enough snow that I can ski right from my front door and out along the promenade. To be skiing right beside the sea is wonderful. You can marvel at snow lying on the beach and watch the snow-laden fronts move in from the North Sea.

From the promenade, the side streets took me up onto the High Street then onto my nearest golf course, Portobello. It's already a little higher than the promenade so the snow was thicker. The golf course gives wide open panoramas and a view to Arthur's Seat, the city's little mountain. You just need to be careful about spotting the bunkers. 

Best of all is the woodland path along the edge of the course. In the snow, in the early morning with nobody else around, it was transformed in my imagination into a boreal forest of northern Scandinavia. 

A little further away from Portobello but still accessible for skiing is the beautiful golf course at Duddingston. Its undulating fairways and woodland copses are changed by the snow into a magical, winter wonderland. I skied over the little bridges that cross the river which cuts through the middle of the course and examined tracks in the snow left by the wilder inhabitants during the night. A snow-covered Arthur's Seat dominated the view here as it's much closer and a favourite bench gave a lovely view of it with the rest of the city obscured by trees and the folds of the land. Under a blanket of white, you have no inclination that you are on a golf course. 

Duddingston is a little higher again relative to Portobello so there was even more snow and good vantages for watching sunrise or sunset. It was so magical to be skiing there by torchlight in the frozen stillness of early morning.

Those snow days were wonderful and brought fun,  immense beauty and joy. Just what was needed to lift the lockdown spirits.

Fife - Tay Bridge and the Newport Nature Trail

This is one of my favourite short walks. Handily for me, it connects the train station in Dundee with family in Newport-on-Tay. But if that’s not your reason for walking it, then it can also be used for a wander up Wormit Hill, chilling in Newport’s cafes or just for the joy of the route itself.

Stepping off the train in Dundee, I’m immediately greeted by the double delights of the RRS Discovery and the V&A Museum. The Discovery was built in Dundee and sailed Scott to the Antarctic in 1902. The V&A Museum is a little younger, having opened in 2018. Its design is inspired by the cliffs of Scotland's north-eastern coastline and it was built out into the River Tay to recreate the prow of a ship, reflecting the city’s shipbuilding heritage and the Discovery next door. What I love most about the museum is the walkway that cuts under the middle of the building. At the right time of day at the right time of year, it floods with light from the rising sun.

It’s a just a couple of minutes’ walk from the museum to the Tay Road Bridge and its central walkway. Once on the bridge the views really open up. Looking east is the widening Tay estuary guarded by Broughty Ferry Castle. Looking west, the Tay Rail Bridge forms the foreground as the river cuts a line back to Perth and the southern Highlands. Today my eye was drawn by the contrast between the old rigging of the Discovery and the modern rigging in the port, both reaching up into a morning sky tinged orange by the dawn.

As I walk towards Fife across the bridge, I can feel that it’s very marginally uphill. This is most obvious if you look at the bridge from a distance at high tide when there is much more space between sea and bridge at the Fife end. I always stop for a moment about halfway across the bridge whether I’m walking, scooting or cycling to look back to Dundee and the Sidlaw Hills rising behind.

Once I step off the bridge at the Fife side, I’m straight onto Newport’s nature trail. Initially it cuts a quiet line behind the houses of the village, sneaking between back garden walls and rows of painted, wooden garages. There are some nice villas here, probably built by the wealthy merchants of Dundee in the day.

Before too long, the trail climbs up onto the old railway line that once connected Newport and Tayport to the Fife end of the rail bridge. On a crisp winter morning, it was a beautiful walk along the old line. Early sun drenched the tangled mass of trees that line the route and fallen leaves were frosted white by the overnight chill.

As the trail heads westwards on the hillside above town, I’m reminded of the past as I walk under old railway bridges. At times I have open views across the rooftops of Newport to the Tay and Dundee. At other times, I’m wrapped up in a tunnel of trees and bushes alive with small birds.

Just before Wormit, there’s a great view of the Tay Rail Bridge which is much closer now. I always hope that a train is crossing and I can watch it taking the final curve of the bridge into Dundee. Just beyond here, it’s the end of the line for the nature trail as a series of steps take you off the old railway and down into Wormit. 

Fact File
Start: Dundee Train Station
Finish: Wormit
Public transport: Train to Dundee; local buses run back from Wormit or Newport to Dundee.
Route: Exit the station and cross the road towards the V&A Museum, then pass under the building. Walk east along the walkway beside the river to the stairs up to the Tay Road Bridge. At the other end of the bridge, exit to the right then take the path to the left. Where it meets houses, continue straight on up Norwood. Where it meets a road, cross and continue along a dirt track beside wooden garages. Where it emerges from here, ascend the stairs ahead to the old railway line. Follow the line west. Where it next meets a road, turn left up the road then take the first road to the right. A little way along here a nature trail sign points you to a path heading into trees and back onto the old line. Follow it west, going straight over the car park that it meets. The route crosses another road after here - a path to the left just before links to Wormit Hill. Where the nature trail ends, steps head down to the right into Wormit. You can walk back the same way or walk back to the bridge along the waterfront of Newport.