Loch Lomond - Long live the weeds

What would the world be once bereft
Of wet and of wildness? Let them be left,
Oh let them be left, wildness and wet
Long live the weeds and the wilderness yet.

Inversnaid, Gerard Manley Hopkins

I'm living in the past. Or at least my blog is. Scotland is currently gripped in winter with freezing temperatures and a blanket of snow but my blog is still enjoying the mild temperatures, gentle drizzles and rich colours of autumn with this multi day walk in early October. I guess it will eventually catch up.

Talking of the past, all the years that I have been going to the hills I have traveled up the west shore of Loch Lomond on the bus or the train and gazed across at the east shore where the West Highland Way path is the only means of travel. I knew it must be gorgeous walking there through the woods in autumn and finally got round to doing just that.

The lunchtime train let me out at Crianlarich where I picked up the linking path to join the West Highland Way. Bucking the trend for walking the Way in a northerly direction, I turned south through Glen Falloch. The glen is quite lovely with a white water river, waterfalls, regenerating woods and a wall of Munros to the east. On this grey, wet day swathes of rain passed across the hillsides and the only bright spot was a friendly robin on a waymarker post.

Towards the end of the afternoon, the waters of Loch Lomond finally came into sight and what a stunning sight they were. Drizzly, misty weather created the perfect atmosphere for the view down the wooded shores, the ends of which were too far away to see. Everything was moist and the musty smell of the feral goats grazing between the trees hung in the air.

It was time to camp and I loved the quaintness of the landing for the passenger ferry to Ardlui. There is no ticket office or dock. Here you just have to raise a bright orange buoy if you want the ferry to come over. There were some nice spots for pitching the tent amongst the trees here too and the gentle lapping of waves on a pebble shore.

Next day my walk continued south through the early autumn woods, still more green than gold but still beautiful. I was surprised by how rugged the route was with lots of scrambling up and over boulders, and ascents and descents as the path undulated with the shoreline. There was something primal about the woods here which were lush and dripping in the day's drizzle. Ferns filled in the understorey and here and there old walls covered with lichens emerged from the rampant undergrowth. There was a wildness as well to the sandy, driftwood strewn beaches that formed the boundary between trees and water. I loved it and wanted the walk to go on forever.

I passed Inversnaid where a road comes over the hills to meet the loch shore and enjoyed the waterfalls but didn't linger, eager as I was to re-immerse myself in the wilderness of the woods.

A little way south of Inversnaid I left the shores of Loch Lomond to climb up through the hills. The showers of the day cleared to reveal a panorama of the loch and the mountains at its back. As I climbed higher the dipping sun created subtle evening colours on the north, little seen side of Ben Lomond. This was me in Gleann Gaoithe now for another night out in the tent before the long walk through the glen to Aberfoyle. 

Gleann Gaoithe is open in its upper reaches with some straggly woods but lower down the trees take over, a mix of commercial and native woods. It is a place of richness dominated by the rocky outline of Ben Lomond. It is another place of wildness and wet. 

Fact File

Start: Crianlarich by train from Glasgow
Finish: Aberfoyle for a bus to Stirling then a train home
Route: At the bottom of the platform steps at Crianlarich turn left and round the corner steps acsend to the road above. Immediately opposite is the link path to the West Highland Way. Followed the Way south to the abandoned cottage at Cailness and the track that climbs behind the cottage passes up into Gleann Gaoithe and ultimately all the way through to Milton near Aberfoyle. There is apparently a gap in the fence just before the cottage but I missed it and just squeezed through the gates. 

Greenock - A cut above

My friend was a bit surprised when I said we were going for an outdoors weekend to Greenock! And I'm not sure what I expected myself but we were to enjoy one of the best wee walks in Scotland on the Greenock Cut.

The Cut is a 19th century aqueduct that brought water down into Greenock from reservoirs in the hills above. At the time it was built, Greenock was expanding and industries were developing along the Clyde. Today, it's beautifully preserved and makes a stunning walk as it contours high around the side of Dunrod Hill to Cornalees Bridge and Compensation Reservoir. It's fascinating to see the old cattle bridges and the remains of stone-built bothies that provided shelter for the workers. There are several sluices dotted along the Cut as well which were known as "wasters" because they controlled the level of the water. Given the gradual gradient, it's also quite an easy walk. However, the feature that catapults the Cut into the outdoors hall of fame, is the view. For very little effort, you can enjoy a panorama that sweeps over the Southern Highlands including Ben Lomond, the Clyde Estuary, the Cowal Peninsula, Bute and Arran. It's spectacular on a clear day and we were lucky enough to get just that.

We'd jumped off the train at Drumfrochar and from here the start of the Cut was about 15 minutes walk away. A good path follows the Cut as it meanders round the hill and we wandered dreamily along in the sunshine, soaking up the ever changing view. 

Eventually the Cut arrives at Cornalees Bridge where there is a small visitor centre telling its story. I especially liked the huge, long poles with metal blades on the end that were used to break ice in the Cut in winter. The Cut ends at Cornalees Bridge but our walk continued on another 19th century aqueduct, the Kelly Cut. 

The Kelly Cut is not as well preserved as the Greenock Cut but can still be followed through the hills with a reasonable track running beside it. The track eventually comes out at Wemyss Bay, where we would catch a train home. Although the full walk could be easily done in a day, we had started late with the intention of making a camp in the hills above. So as the afternoon stretched into evening, we bashed our way up through heather and bog to find the only spot for miles that would accommodate our tents. The view from the camp spot stretched over to Cowal and as darkness moved in, we could see the streetlights of Dunoon twinkling below across the water.

Next morning, we followed the Kelly Cut to its end then picked up a beautiful path that descended a wooded gorge to pop out in Wemyss Bay. Who doesn't love to catch a train or a ferry there to enjoy the grandeur of the station. The station and ferry terminal were designed in curves to ease the passage of people and the curves are replicated in the circular ticket office and the glass ceiling. 

You could say that those curves were replicated in the Greenock Cut as well as it contoured gently round the hills, easing the passage of water to the towns below.

Fact File
More photos on Flickr

Start: Drumfrochar train station
Finish: Wemyss Bay train station 
Public transport: Glasgow to Wemyss Bay trains stop at Drumfrochar
Route: Headed uphill from the train station up Peat Road then Papermill Road. The Cut starts at the road end. Where the Greenock Cut ends at Cornalees Bridge, the Kelly Cut is signed onwards on the other side of the bridge. The Kelly Cut eventually meets a gravel track below Kelly Reservoir and this track descends to Wemyss Bay. A nice path leaves it to the left before the caravan park for a nicer walk into the town. It comes out opposite the train station.

Fife - Fastpacking the Lomond Hills

If you've been reading recent blogs, you might think that I haven't been very far afield, since here is another blog from Fife! To be honest, I haven't been far over summer but I can assure you that blogs will be coming soon from other locations!  However, the Lomond Hills were a good choice for my first ever fastpacking trip as they have good, run-able trails and are not too remote given that I was carrying very lightweight kit. Fastpacking is like backpacking but faster and lighter. It's about moving fast through the hills with minimal camping kit. It can be walking fast or running and on my trip I was aiming to run as much of the route as possible.

My trip started at Markinch and used some of the Fife Pilgrim Way to pick up a trail into the hills at Pitcairn. The trail was a long, climbing path up to and over East Lomond so I had to walk much of this, especially the steep flanks of the hill itself. But it was a pretty approach through woods, fields and heather moors. 

The descent down the other side was an enjoyable run and took me to the old lime kilns. This is a beautiful spot for a breather with wildflowers, a pond and the old kilns. The Lomond Hills are volcanic and were formed 380 million years ago. However, the limestone in the area was formed from shells on the sea floor and protected over time by the harder volcanic rock on top. The limestone was quarried in more recent history for use in construction and agriculture but had to be burned in the kilns to create lime. 

After my short break here, I set out running again, using a lovely track that heads west. It was actually built by the limestone quarriers to transport the lime out of the hills. It's very pleasing on the eye as it cuts a line through this high place and is dominated by the cone-shaped top of West Lomond up ahead. 

I wasn't running up West Lomond but instead picked up the farm track to Little Ballo and then onto Harperleas Reservoir. I love the path from here that climbs up through the trees to West Feal. Although it's a plantation wood, there is a mix of trees in places and some nice open rides where the sun filters through. It was another long climb so I was again mostly walking and that continued beyond West Feal also as I climbed up onto the ridge of Bishop Hill.

It was a beautiful run along the ridge in evening sunshine with steep slopes sweeping down to Loch Leven below and some surprising rock features to inspect. However more often than not on this ridge, there is a fierce wind fueled by the thermals that rise up the slopes. So I dropped down a little and found a calmer spot for the bivvy in a larch wood. I'd packed the bivvy rather than the tent to save on weight and bulk. With this being the tail end of summer, I was also able to use my tiniest sleeping bag as well and a minuscule alcohol stove that heated water in my mug for a simple meal. 

A beautiful sunrise kicked off the next day as I set out running down through Glen Vale. It's a magical spot with limestone rock features and a lush, wooded gorge. The path was soft and sandy and perfect for running. A thin drizzle of rain soon came on and cooled the morning. It provided an excuse, as if needed, to pull into Loch Leven's Larder for coffee and cake. A connecting trail from here took me to the main path along the shore of the loch.

Being mid week and wet, it was quiet and I enjoyed the peace and solitude as I finished my trip by running into Kinross for a bus home. It had been harder than I imagined to run with camping equipment, even along the flat, and I wished I had done more training runs carrying weight. However, I was happy with what I had managed to run overall and I'd really enjoyed the trip. It was nice to experience a place well known to me in a completely different way through running it.

Fact File
Start: Markinch (Edinburgh - Dundee trains stop here)
Finish: Kinross (buses to Edinburgh from the Park & Ride)
Route: From Markinch to Pitcairn Centre on the Fife Pilgrim Way and then picked my way through a few streets to the centre. Path from the centre up East Lomond then down the other side and along the track to Craigmead. A short distance south on the hill road then track signed for Little Ballo. To end of this track then crossed the retaining wall for Harperleas Reservoir and turned right on the track at the far end. Path to West Feal is signed from this track a little further west. From West Feal up the track to Monduff Hill and along the ridge north to Bishop Hill. A vague path drops northeast from Bishop Hill eventually running beside a wall at a larch wood. This path eventually joins the main path that heads down through Glen Vale. Turned left where Glen Vale path met the road to Glenalmond and then right when it meets the A road. Just after here is Loch Leven's Larder and a path from here joins the Loch Leven Heritage Trail into Kinross.
Kit: Ultimate Direction Fastpackher 20 running pack; Outdoor Research Alpine bivvy; Sea to Summit spark sleeping bag; Thermarest Neoair sleeping pad; Speedster mini alcohol stove with titanium mug.

Fife - Last of the summer rides

The nights are drawing in and the temperature is dropping but before the season began its change into autumn, I fitted in a last summer cycle trip in Fife. The hot, sunny days through golden fields ready for the harvest, captured the essence of this time of year.

The ride headed northeast out of Markinch using the route of the Fife Pilgrim Way along field margins, farm tracks and ancient paths. The first section was especially enjoyable by bike, pedaling along between fields and hedgerows on single track baked hard by the summer sun. 

We soon left the fields behind to climb gently into the woods and forests of Clatto Hill. This section had a remote and empty feel to it that was hard to explain given its proximity to reasonable sized towns. Perhaps it was because we stuck to gravel tracks and forest rides so never crossed any roads. 

A lovely descent through Clatto Den took us to Clatto Reservoir. It was an idyllic spot in the sun with waterfowl on the loch and dazzling blue damselflies flitting around the bright pink of the rosebay willowherb that lined the margins.

Our next path cut a meandering line across the fields before bringing us out in Ceres at the Bishop's Bridge. It was built in the 17th century and the gradient of its arch plus the cobbled surface defeated our modern day bicycles and we had to push over. 

Our ride continued northeast out of Ceres on countryside paths and then up a steep farm track onto Kinninmonth Hill. The stiff climb was worth the effort for the view back over our route and to the Lomond Hills beyond. The climb had also taken us to our wee campsite for the night at Drumcarrow Farm. It was basic, just a field beside the farmhouse with one toilet and a shower in a portakabin, but it was a lovely spot. The view was open and extended over rolling fields and woods. House martins twittered overhead and the craggy hill of Drumcarrow Craig behind the farm provided a pleasant walk to fill the evening.

The campsite was also our turnaround point and next day we made our way back to Markinch on quiet, meandering back roads.

Fact File

Start/finish: Markinch
Public Transport: Edinburgh to Perth and Edinburgh to Dundee trains stop at Markinch.
Route: Fife Pilgrim Way from Markinch is all rideable with a loaded bike except for a couple of very steep but very short sections. It goes right by the campsite. Returned to Markinch via the National Cycle Network route through Craigrothie, Coaltown of Burnturk and Star.

Fife - Running in a quiet corner of the county

The north coast of Fife is a bit of a hidden gem. While Tentsmuir, Tayport and Newport are well visited, the coast west towards Newburgh is much more quiet. But the shore path here is beautiful and has become one of my favourite running routes when I'm staying in Newport with family.

 

My run starts at Wormit Bay beside the memorial to the Tay Bridge Disaster. On 28 December 1879, the first rail bridge collapsed in a storm as a train was passing over it. It's thought that 75 people were killed in the accident and that the cause was poor engineering design. Today the memorial is a peaceful spot with Dundee and the Sidlaw Hills providing the backdrop for the rail bridge that was built to replace the original and still stands today. 

A single track, dirt path undulates west from the memorial, dipping in and out of woods and opening up views through the trees over the Tay and the Carse of Gowrie. In spring and summer the coastal woodlands here are a riot of colour with many types of wildflower. Once I also caught sight of a fox on the path ahead, the dappled sunshine picking out the rich reds of its coat. 

After a few kilometres, the path arrives at Balmerino, a pretty cluster of cottages along the beach. Here I like to detour to Balmerino Abbey as its decaying ruins and overgrown grounds are a peaceful haven to spend a few minutes and catch my breath. The abbey dates from the 13th century and within its grounds is one of Scotland's oldest trees, a sprawling Spanish chestnut more than 400 years old.

 

From the abbey, I run along the Monk's Road, an old path that loops through the woods back to the coast. Spring is my favourite time to be here because the woodland floor is thick with wild garlic and the path just a narrow line through the dense vegetation.

On the return leg along the coast path, I'm feeling the miles and every descent where a stream has cut a mini gorge on its way from the fields to the sea. I'm happy when my feet hit the flat path again at Wormit Bay.  

Fact File

Start/finish: Wormit Bay

Public transport: Stagecoach bus 77 

My route: Follow the Fife Coastal Path west from Wormit Bay to Balmerino. It joins the dead-end road here. Stay on the road a couple of minutes up the hill to visit the abbey. The roads here are single track and have barely any traffic on them. On the return take the road to the right, The Neuk, and then take the Monk's Road path signed to the right. Where it meets a road turn left, then left at the next junction then take a track down to the coastal path passed the Balmerino beach hut (ice cream, drinks) to return on the same path to Wormit Bay.  

Cairngorms - To the heart of the map

Ordnance Survey map 43 is probably one of my favourite maps. It covers such delights as the Cairngorms massif, the pinewoods of Mar Lodge, the upper reaches of Glen Feshie and the Atholl Munros. Slicing through all of this is the long line of a path which starts in the north as the Lairig Ghru and crosses wild country to pop out further south at Blair Atholl. Whilst I'd walked either end of this line, I'd somehow never got round to walking the whole route and the wildest terrain in the middle. My May holiday this year finally put that right with a crossing that took me through the heart of the map.

I started walking south from Aviemore which itself is just off the map but it wasn't long before I was climbing up through the ancient pinewoods of Rothiemurchus and into the deep defile of the Lairig Ghru. The Lairig Ghru is a dramatic route which cuts through the 4000 foot Munros that rise in sweeping, bouldery flanks on either side of its high pass. 

I'd hoped to camp high here for the first night out but the wind howled through and I had to descend to the other side to camp by the river. It was still a beautiful spot, nestled below the rock architecture of Cairn Toul, Braeriach and Ben Macdui.

With plenty of food in my pack, I could afford a detour to the east for the next couple of days to spend time among the pinewoods of Mar Lodge estate which are regenerating under the ownership of the National Trust. Heavy downpours doused the forests as I walked but afterwards I could enjoy the petrichor, the earthy smell after the rain. As well as a wander through the woods, I wanted to take time to explore an interesting landscape feature called Clais Fhearnaig. It's a glacial melt water channel that cuts a deep gash through the hills between Glen Lui and Glen Quoich. It was a fabulous walk with a secretive path meandering through crags and lochans.  

At the far end of Clais Fhearnaig, I picked up a high level trail that skirted the upper fringes of the pine woods to take me to the top of Creag Bhalg, a little hill with a big view. It felt empty and open up here, and the dark skies glowering overhead added to the sense of wildness. The Cairngorms were stretched out to the north and the view south disappeared into the rounded lumps of the Glen Ey hills. I pitched the tent high where the pines were thinning out, taking the opportunity for a high camp as bigger winds were forecast to move in the next day. Things didn't quite go to plan.

The winds arrived early, around 11pm that night, and were accompanied by heavy rain. Both battered my tent high up on the hillside. The winds got so bad that I was worried the tent would come down so I packed up all my kit and sat dressed and awake, bracing the main pole of the tent against the gusts. When the heavy rain eased around midnight, I took the opportunity to break camp, find the path off the hill in the darkness and descend to the glen. By the time I was on the main track in Glen Derry, the wind still hammered through but the rain was off and the skies cleared so that I didn't even need the head torch on.  It was actually incredibly beautiful walking through the woods at midnight with a few stars twinkling and a paleness on the horizon where the summer sun had not fully set. After a short walk, I was re-pitched in the shelter of the lower pines and back in my sleeping bag by 2am.

The next day's walk took me south to the tumbling waterfalls of Linn of Dee and then west back into the bigger hills. I was heading now to the ruin of Bynack Lodge. Between me and it were two river crossings. The first, the Geldie Burn, is well known in hillwalking circles and I'd a degree of nervousness as I approached. The word "burn" is a bit misleading as this is a wide river but it was no trouble that day being quite gentle and shallow. The second crossing was the Bynack Burn and I found it a little more tricky as it was narrower and faster but again, I was across without too much trouble.

I'd arrived now at Bynack Lodge, a beautiful but remote spot if ever there was one, that sits right at the heart of map 43. The ruins were extensive and more of a settlement than a single lodge with the remains of several outbuildings and a set of steps that would have originally led down into an underground cold store. The ruins were enclosed by a drystane dyke and softened by a cluster of larch trees. There was a large area of cropped grass around the lodge where you could have pitched 50 tents and still had space. The sun shone and the absolute peace was broken only by the gurgle of the river and the chirping of chaffinches in the trees. I had a wonderful, relaxing evening pottering about my tent, exploring the ruins and soaking up the wild atmosphere of this remote place. After bed, heavy rain came on and hammered down all through the night. Next morning, the rivers were swollen and I wouldn't have been able to make the crossings had I passed a day later.

But the sun was out again as I continued my journey south. A good path picked its way through the watershed of the Geldie and the Tilt, and passed the remote waters of Loch Tilt which were sapphire blue under a sunny sky. I climbed a little top above the loch for a better view and sat a while munching a muesli bar. It was idyllic and empty and I wondered how many other people had ever sat on this top. I thought not many.

The route passed now into the narrow, upper reaches of Glen Tilt and was dominated by the massive bulk of Beinn a'Ghlo, the Munro that forms the east wall of the glen. It looked impressive from this angle, all bulk and presence. The narrow path clung to the hillside above the river which had cut a deep, rocky gorge as it approached the Falls of Tarf. The Falls are beautiful and would no doubt be a major tourist attraction if they weren't so remote. 

This was me in familiar territory now and all that remained was the long walk down Glen Tilt to catch the train at Blair Atholl. I love a wander through Glen Tilt as it has such variety in its landscape with woods, rivers, mountains, pastures and beautiful old, arched bridges. It is a long walk though so I split the miles with another night out in the tent at a favourite spot to the west of the main route down the glen. I'd only used the spot in winter previously but how beautiful it was in early summer with trees in fresh leaf around the pretty bridge and the air filled with the calls of summer songbirds. 

This left a short walk the next day into the village to complete my crossing of the map. As well as being a fabulous walk in its own right, I was delighted to have discovered the wild country at the heart of map 43.

Fact File
Start: Aviemore
Finish: Blair Atholl
Public transport: Edinburgh/Glasgow to Inverness trains serve Aviemore and Blair Atholl
My route: South out of Aviemore, picking up the Lairig Ghru at Coylumbridge. At Corrour Bothy, took the higher eastbound path to Luibeg Bridge and Derry Lodge. Took path up into Clais Fhearnaig about halfway down Glen Lui. From Glen Quoich side, picked up a trail that ascends through woods and passes to the west of Creag Bhalg. A path goes from this trail to the top of the hill. Descended to Linn of Dee and walked west to Whitebridge then south to Bynack Lodge, passed Loch Tilt and through Glen Tilt. 

Glen Lyon - The Praying Hands

Tucked away in a hidden corner of quiet Glen Lyon is a fabulous rock feature called The Praying Hands. I'd been desperate to visit since first becoming aware of it as the photos I saw online looked very atmospheric. A spring camping trip provided the opportunity to finally get there. 

It wasn't a long walk to The Praying Hands but it was a pretty walk through springtime woods alive with bird song and the call of the year's first cuckoo. The track crossed the River Lyon by a vehicle bridge then traveled west before heading into the hills at the idyllic cottages of Balmenoch. A short pull alongside gently tumbling waterfalls soon had us standing below The Praying Hands. 

I was mesmerised. It was such a beautiful spot with the rock perched precariously on a prominent plateau that gave a commanding view of this part of the glen. Their situation and their very appearance must have made The Praying Hands an auspicious place for the ancient people who lived close by. It was hard to drag ourselves away as they seemed to have some magical pull on us as well.

However the short walk to The Praying Hands was not enough to fill a weekend trip, so we continued further up the glen and pitched the tents at an inviting spot by the river. Freed from our heavier camping kit, we set out to climb the Corbett that rose above the head of the glen, Meall nam Maigheach. A shallow gully with craggy boundaries provided a pleasant pull onto the ridge and revealed a ring ouzel, also known as the Mountain Blackbird. It looks like a blackbird but has a necklace of white feathers and inhabits these higher, wilder places.

The walk along the ridge to the summit was long and rough with a pathless trudge through deep heather and peat hags. But the views were superb and from the top I could look back to a couple of key moments in my life. To the south the view was filled by the Tarmachan Ridge. It was the first hill walk that I ever did with my friend Graham 27 years ago and Graham was standing beside me now on the summit today. To the west I could look further back at the pointed top of Stuchd an Lochain, the first Munro that I did on my own. That must have been about 30 years ago! 

We sat a while on the top beside a little lochan that reflected the blue sky above before making a more direct descent to the glen. Eventually the faint outline of a path alongside the river guided us back to the tents. The short evening left enough time for cooking supper, sipping tea and watching the sun set behind Meall nam Maigheach.

A slow start the next morning allowed the rising sun to clear the ridge to the east and dry the dew from our tents. It was then a short amble back out though we couldn't resist their pull as we passed and made another visit to The Praying Hands.

Fact File

Start/finish: Camusvrachan, Glen Lyon

Public transport: None to the start. I took the train to Dunkeld where Graham met me with his car but I have previously accessed Glen Lyon using the bus to Aberfeldy with the folding bike and then cycling up the glen.

Route: Crossed the bridge over the River Lyon immediately south of Camusvrachan and turned right when it met another track. After a pretty pond, reached cottages at Balmenoch and opposite the cottages on the west side of the river a grassy track heads uphill. Further up it's easy to see The Praying Hands to the right above you. Continued up the west side of Gleann Da-Eig and gained the ridge of Meall nam Maigheach at its lowest point just south of Creag nan Eildeag. Straightforward walk southwest to the top. On the return, we skirted the crags then descended to the bottom of the glen. A faint path traveled back on the west side of the river and made a pleasant walk.

Borders - Dollar Law

Some trips are not about having the biggest adventure or covering the most miles in the hills. Some trips are just about finding a nice spot for the tent and enjoying the evening pottering around your temporary home. This was such a trip.

Dollar Law sits at the head of the Manor Valley to the south of Peebles, in an area of hills I have not managed to visit before now. But this sunny, spring day created the perfect opportunity to get acquainted with them. Our route climbed up through sheep farm country with curlews calling mournfully in the fields while skylarks sang above. A steep pull put us up onto the heathery ridgeline but it was bone dry up here and we soon had to drop back down again to collect water, a slightly dispiriting diversion. 

Weighted down with enough water to get us through the night, we continued west along the ridge to a flat bealach just below the top of Dollar Law, a perfect spot for pitching the tents. This high place gave wide open views. When you think of hills in Scotland, you more often than not picture the Highlands but here in the Borders hills and ridge lines filled every compass point to the horizon. Culter Fell dominated the view to the west with Tinto just poking above. 

The sun dipped and cast a golden light over our tents. Later it set with quite a spectacle, appearing as a bright red ball that dropped behind Culter Fell. It was equally beautiful the next morning when it rose to the east and our camp spot was perfectly perched to enjoy both sunrise and sunset.

After breakfast it was an easy stroll to the top of Dollar Law but a knee-crunching, steep descent to the valley floor to walk back.

Fact File

Photos on Flickr click HERE

Start/finish: Manor Valley road at the start of the track to Old Kirkhope farm.
Public transport: None so we used my friend's car.
Route: Walked up the track to the old farm at Kirkhope and skirted to the left of the buildings to start climbing the grassy ridge above the river opposite Southey Hill. Followed the fenceline here for much of the way and gained the ridge at Newholm Hill. Picked up a path running southeast over the shoulder of Dollar Law and camped on the large flat area to the north of Fifescar Knowe. For the return, we dropped directly northeast of Dollar Law, coming down the side of plantation to rejoin the road to walk to the start.