My friend was a bit surprised when I said we were going for an outdoors weekend to Greenock! And I'm not sure what I expected myself but we were to enjoy one of the best wee walks in Scotland on the Greenock Cut.
The Cut is a 19th century aqueduct that brought water down into Greenock from reservoirs in the hills above. At the time it was built, Greenock was expanding and industries were developing along the Clyde. Today, it's beautifully preserved and makes a stunning walk as it contours high around the side of Dunrod Hill to Cornalees Bridge and Compensation Reservoir. It's fascinating to see the old cattle bridges and the remains of stone-built bothies that provided shelter for the workers. There are several sluices dotted along the Cut as well which were known as "wasters" because they controlled the level of the water. Given the gradual gradient, it's also quite an easy walk. However, the feature that catapults the Cut into the outdoors hall of fame, is the view. For very little effort, you can enjoy a panorama that sweeps over the Southern Highlands including Ben Lomond, the Clyde Estuary, the Cowal Peninsula, Bute and Arran. It's spectacular on a clear day and we were lucky enough to get just that.
We'd jumped off the train at Drumfrochar and from here the start of the Cut was about 15 minutes walk away. A good path follows the Cut as it meanders round the hill and we wandered dreamily along in the sunshine, soaking up the ever changing view.
Eventually the Cut arrives at Cornalees Bridge where there is a small visitor centre telling its story. I especially liked the huge, long poles with metal blades on the end that were used to break ice in the Cut in winter. The Cut ends at Cornalees Bridge but our walk continued on another 19th century aqueduct, the Kelly Cut.
The Kelly Cut is not as well preserved as the Greenock Cut but can still be followed through the hills with a reasonable track running beside it. The track eventually comes out at Wemyss Bay, where we would catch a train home. Although the full walk could be easily done in a day, we had started late with the intention of making a camp in the hills above. So as the afternoon stretched into evening, we bashed our way up through heather and bog to find the only spot for miles that would accommodate our tents. The view from the camp spot stretched over to Cowal and as darkness moved in, we could see the streetlights of Dunoon twinkling below across the water.
Next morning, we followed the Kelly Cut to its end then picked up a beautiful path that descended a wooded gorge to pop out in Wemyss Bay. Who doesn't love to catch a train or a ferry there to enjoy the grandeur of the station. The station and ferry terminal were designed in curves to ease the passage of people and the curves are replicated in the circular ticket office and the glass ceiling.
You could say that those curves were replicated in the Greenock Cut as well as it contoured gently round the hills, easing the passage of water to the towns below.
More photos on Flickr
Finish: Wemyss Bay train station
Public transport: Glasgow to Wemyss Bay trains stop at Drumfrochar
Route: Headed uphill from the train station up Peat Road then Papermill Road. The Cut starts at the road end. Where the Greenock Cut ends at Cornalees Bridge, the Kelly Cut is signed onwards on the other side of the bridge. The Kelly Cut eventually meets a gravel track below Kelly Reservoir and this track descends to Wemyss Bay. A nice path leaves it to the left before the caravan park for a nicer walk into the town. It comes out opposite the train station.