I'd watched it move in from the west. A wall of rain and black cloud that was so dark it turned late afternoon into twilight. It caught me of course on the most exposed part of my route, the Yankee Road above Garelochhead. Rain started, hammering against my waterproofs, then it turned to hail that hit my hood like bullets. At these moments, I always remind myself that if I wanted to be cosy and comfortable, I could just stay at home. But this is much better. This is being uncomfortable and feeling alive.
The day had started more quietly. Off the train at Arrochar and Tarbert for a two-day backpacking trip along the Three Lochs Way. The Way runs from Inveruglas to Balloch, taking in Loch Long, the Gare Loch and Loch Lomond. Having walked the initial section many times, I started on this occasion at Tarbert, picking up the trail outside the station. Here a chill wind blew through with remnants of winter but there was little snow left on Ben Lomond.
The trail undulated south high above Loch Long. The grey weather created a perfect atmosphere for the long views along the loch as layers of murky mountains sank into the water. It was a stunning walk. The railway line kept company with the trail, contouring round the hillside on its narrow ledge. The route became steeper and was dotted with crags and old birch woods while the rocky outline of the Cobbler drew the eye on the other side of the loch.
The trail eventually left the lochside and descended into Gleann Culanach tucked away behind the Luss Hills. Despite the extent of forestry, it was a pleasant walk here with pockets of sun that were warm enough to release the aroma of pine trees. The route then emerged above Garelochhead on the Yankee Road which was built by the US army in World War 2. Today it still functions as an army firing range. Once the storm had passed over, it left behind a beautiful evening of soft golden light as I continued the walk down Glen Fruin to find a spot for the tent.
And what a spot it was. The next morning the low rays of the rising sun caught a sliver of Loch Lomond way off to my left and down to my right, the waters of the Clyde were a sapphire blue. Skylarks sang overhead as I packed up and walked down into Helensburgh through Highlandman's Wood where tree shadows cross-hatched the trail ahead.
Onwards from Helensburgh, the Way connected up footpaths and forest trails to eventually join Stoneymollan Road. This is an old coffin road that was used by people in Balloch to transport the dead to consecrated ground in Cardross on the Clyde. There are two particularly nice sections on the old "road". The first is where it emerges from the forest high on the hill to reveal a stunning panorama of Loch Lomond peppered with wooded islands and framed by Ben Lomond. The second is where the road descends from here for the final walk into Balloch. It passes through a line of knarly old trees and I imagine they must be old enough to have watched the coffins pass.
My walk ended at Balloch which was a bustling contrast to the peace and quiet of the last two days.