West Highlands - Blown away by the cobwebs

In October I'm always seeking out trips that make the most of the autumn colours. The Loch Lomond area is a good destination at this time of year because it's blessed with a lot of deciduous cover that turns gold and yellow come October. So this two day trip walked a section of the West Highland Way, starting at the north end of Loch Lomond. 

There was an unusual beginning to the walk though as we got off the train at Ardlui and took the tiny ferry across the loch to Ardliesh on the eastern shore. I had never done this before but my friend had used the ferry 40 years ago. He described having to wade waist deep to get onto to the boat on the far shore as there was no jetty and then being offered whisky by the ferryman! 40 years later we discovered there is now a jetty but no whisky on offer.

Once off the boat, we started walking north. The colours were just turning and the golds, russets and yellows were complimented by the reds of rowan and hawthorn. The high tops were in whispy cloud but as we looked back across the water, the glen above Ardlui was a cascade of autumn trees that tumbled down to the loch shore. A slight rise in the route then afforded a gorgeous view down Loch Lomond and its wooded shores.

The walk onward was beautiful with a richness in the nature that slowed our pace as we took it all in. There were a myriad of mushrooms along the route and knarly old trees that framed distant views to the hills. We marvelled at autumn oak leaves dotted with galls and stopped to watch the roaring waters at the Falls of Falloch. 

As we pulled out of Glen Falloch towards Crianlarich, it was already early evening and the dipping sun cast golden rays over the glen. Our path climbed gently and as the light was fading we found a spot for the tents at the Crianlarich Crossroads. This may sound like a busy city interchange but it's actually the name for the junction in the West Highland Way path with the linking path to Crianlarich. I imagine in summer it's a popular section of path but it was already late in the year and late in the day so we were happy about pitching the tents here. We even had the luxury of a bench where we cooked supper after dark.

We set out next morning into the mist of a temperate inversion. This was really lucky because it treated us to two beautiful natural phenomena. First of all, the trees and bushes everywhere were absolutely covered with cobwebs. They were picked out by mist droplets that sparkled as the sun started to break through. In one gorge in particular, the trees were all dotted with dense cobwebs as if somebody had decorated them for Halloween. I had never seen anything like it. 

Then as the sun got stronger a fog bow appeared ahead of us. Much like a rainbow, it's created by sunlight interacting with water droplets but in mist or fog the water droplets are so small that diffraction is dominant, scattering the light and smearing the colours.

The sun eventually broke fully through, leaving only shreds of mist hanging below the mountain tops. The path contoured round the hillside through plantation forestry before dropping into Strath Fillan where birch trees and farmland took over for the final couple of miles into Tyndrum.

Fact File

All the photos on Flickr. Click HERE.

Start: Ardlui for the ferry to Ardliesh

Finish: Tyndrum

Public transport: West Highland line trains between Glasgow and Oban/Fort William stop at Ardlui for the start and at Tyndrum for the return. The Ardlui ferry is part of the waterbus network on the loch and runs through the day in summer, roughly every hour. 

Route: We simply followed the West Highland Way path north which is a good path and fully signed.    

Borders - Bikepacking the Borders Abbeys Way

Just for fun, here is something a wee bit different. As we know, AI is all around us whether we like it or not. I'm even learning to use it at work which is what's introduced me to it recently. Being a wee bit short of time for blogging of late, I had the idea of putting into an AI app my electronic journal notes from a recent trip bikepacking the Borders Abbeys Way. Below is what it sent back to me with my own photos of the trip added. I think it's written it quite well although it seems to have no qualms about over-dramatising things. As a one-off, it's interesting to see what it can do. You can let me know what you think. Now over to AI .....

Two Wheels, Two Feet, and a River: A Borderlands Escape

There’s something deeply restorative about a journey powered by legs and lungs, where the rhythm of wheels on tarmac gives way to the crunch of trail underfoot, and the landscape is not something to speed through, but to dwell in. This weekend adventure through the Scottish Borders was exactly that — a slow, satisfying meander through riverside paths, forest trails, and winding hill roads. Here's how it unfolded.

Sunday: From Melrose to the Middle of Nowhere

We began our day with a train to Tweedbank, arriving in time to enjoy a coffee outside in Melrose, where the quiet morning was anything but—buzzing with the energy of kids' football and rugby matches nearby.

From there, we cycled to Dryburgh, aiming for the abbey but finding it inaccessible this time. Still, the detour rewarded us with peaceful views: a quaint suspension bridge, a whimsical folly, and beautifully nestled homes that made the spot feel almost cinematic.

We pressed on toward Kelso, though one stretch of busy B-road was less than pleasant. Thankfully, the peace returned on quieter country lanes. A cemetery lunch stop at Makerstoun was unexpectedly scenic — not spooky, but serene — and we picked up a walking route that led us through woodlands and open fields, gradually easing us into Kelso.

Kelso greeted us with ice cream by the river, feet dangling over the edge, soaking in the late afternoon sun. With water bottles refilled, we joined a river path along the Teviot, which soon turned from charming to downright brutal — unrideable in parts, a proper bushwhack. By the time we hit Roxburgh, relief came in the form of an old railway line, offering smooth riding and stunning views toward Jedburgh. 

Evening fell as we searched for a campsite. After passing multiple “no-go” spots, we finally found a secluded fishing hut in the trees, just above the river. We made supper and tea, bats flitting above, owls calling in the distance, and yes — huge piles of badger poo close by. A proper wild camp, just the way we like it.

Monday: Mist, Birds, and Brunch

We woke to a gorgeous mist draped across the river and fields. The sunrise turned everything gold, and as we ate breakfast propped against the fishing hut, the air was alive with birds: sand martins, herons, egrets, lapwings, even geese overhead.

Our route took us through Nisbet on tree-lined tracks bathed in morning light, then up a small hill road to Dere Street, descending an old Roman road to Jedburgh. There, we indulged in a well-earned brunch at Abbey Bridge Café — highly recommended if you’re ever in the area.

Fueled up, we climbed over the hills to Bedrule, picked up the walking path near Ruberslaw, and descended roughly to Denholm. From there, quiet back roads led to Hawick, where we lucked out with a stay at Riverside Caravan Park — a lovely, low-key site that welcomes tents from walkers and cyclists. That evening’s highlight? A surprise pizza van — and yes, even gluten-free. The roaming chickens were an added bonus, pecking around the tents like tiny, curious guards.

Tuesday: Into the Wilds and Back Again

Tuesday greeted us with a stiff climb out of Hawick, legs burning but views stretching far over rolling countryside. The tarmac soon disappeared, replaced by a grassy trail over Drinkstone Hill, then a rough forest path down to Ashkirk.

Back roads guided us gently uphill again, where we paused for a picnic lunch at the top of a pass. The weather had shifted — the warm pastures behind us, and in front, a cooler, wilder moorland.

Our final stretch was pure joy: a fast descent through forest tracks, along field edges and farm lanes, until we arrived in Selkirk, just beside the grand estate of The Haining. Coffee and cake were essential here, a sweet finish before coasting down the cycle route back to Tweedbank, and hopping on the return train home.

Minchmoor - Peak heather

Minchmoor Road is one of the oldest paths in Scotland, likely in use before Romans times. According to the Heritage Paths website, it was the main east to west route through the Borders from Peebles to Selkirk into medieval times and was used later than that as a drove road among other things. While all descriptions have it climbing out of Traquhair to ascend over the shoulder of Minch Moor hill, it seems there are multiple variants for the route after that. The current OS map shows it descending to the Yarrow Valley after Hare Hill but it is also described as continuing towards the Three Brethren at the eastern end of the ridge of hills before dropping to Selkirk. Either way, it has become one of my favourite places to be. It's such a wonderful walk. A stiff pull up from Traquhair puts you on top of the hills and thereafter you can wander easily as the path gently undulates east, taking in a panorama of Borders scenery.

I chose Minchmoor for this trip in the middle of August to catch the heather at its blooming best and wasn't disappointed. As we climbed up from Traquhair, the woods were hot and sticky so we were glad to reach the Cheese Well and top up our water bottles. It's such a dependable natural spring, even after an exceptionally dry year. 

Beyond the Cheese Well and onwards to Brown Knowe, the woods thinned and rampant heather took over. I have never seen it looking so beautiful. The hills all around were awash with purple. It was that bright, almost garish purple that you sometimes see in tweed clothing. But the hills wore it elegantly and looked spectacular. 

Late in the day, we pitched the tents a little way below the Three Brethren. It was a spot I'd used before, on the edge of the woods, with an open view over the hills. On this occasion, the tents were nestled down amongst the beautiful heather. 

Next day, we made the steep descent to Yair through lush, summer woods. Around the farm buildings at Yair, swallows chattered in the air and hung around on the overhead wires like a series of musical notes. Instead of staying with the Southern Upland Way path over the hills to Galashiels, we took the path beside the River Tweed to the Old Tweed Bridge. This was a pleasant, riverside walk and a nice contrast with being on the high hills. A brightly, painted fishing hut along here provided a pretty spot to sit for lunch. 

At the bridge, we joined the excellent cycle path that connects Selkirk and Galashiels, using it as far as Netherbarns where we were able to join a rural path over to Galashiels to end our trip. It provided another nice contrast as it cut across the fields and descended into town on an old lane lined by ancient trees.

Fact File

Start: Innerleithen

Finish: Galashiels

Public transport: Borders railway to Galashiels then Borders Buses X62 from the bus interchange beside the station to Innerleithen.

My route: Walked south out of Innerleithen on the pavement along the B709. Immediately after the bridge over the Tweed, a new path leaves to the right and takes you to Traquhair through the woods so the road can be avoided. The route up Minchmoor follows the Southern Upland Way signs from Traquhair to Yair. At Yair we took the B7060 to the right on the far side of the bridge. Where it makes a sharp left turn, the riverside track/path starts and can be followed to Old Tweed Bridge. At the bridge, we joined the cycle route north and at Netherbarns the Southern Upland Way path crosses it. Took the SUW path up to the left and followed it across the fields into Galashiels.

Info: More detail on Minchmoor can be found on the Heritage Paths website.

  

Bynack More - Changes that the years bring

I forget sometimes that I've quite a few years under my belt in life and in the outdoors. Then now and again something happens that reminds me of the passing years and the changes they bring. 

I was out for a walk and wild camp up Bynack More in the Cairngorms. The route to get there leaves Glen More and continues through the old pine woods by An Lochan Uaine. Just after the lochan, the trail splits and the right hand branch heads out for the remoter reaches of Strath Nethy and Glen Avon. This section of trail used to cross empty moorland before reaching a simple shelter called Bynack Stable beside a walkers' bridge over the River Nethy. Here's a younger me taking a breather there many years ago.

But my goodness the place had changed since I was last here. Regenerating woods were springing up from the moorland and a cluster of birch trees now made the bridge a pretty little spot. Sadly, Bynack Stable was gone. Blown down in a gale in 2005 apparently!

Not much had changed however for the ascent of Bynack More and like the last time I climbed it, its rocky top was obscured with mist that felt more like stinging rain in a keen wind. 

We descended to Bynack Stable (I guess I'll still call the place by that name) to pitch the tents out of the worst of the wind. Skies cleared as we dropped down and evening sunshine bathed Strath Nethy. The low rays illuminated the heads of the bog cotton as they bobbed in the breeze and the new woods all around glowed in warm, summer sunlight.

Next day was a short walk back to Glen More to enjoy something that hadn't changed over the years ... a mug of tea at the original Glen More cafe.

Fact File
Start/finish: Trail starts for the An Lochan Uaine walk beside the reindeer centre in Glen More. The bus drops off just before this.
Public transport: Train to Aviemore from Edinburgh then Stagecoach bus 32 from Aviemore to Glen More which runs hourly.
Route: This was the usual route up Bynack More as described here. As we took the bus, we started beside the Reindeer Centre - just after it on the Glen More Lodge road, a dirt trail starts on the left.

Southern Scotland - Backpacking another section of the Southern Upland Way

In May 2023, I accidentally started walking the Southern Upland Way. My plan then had been to simply use the Way to access the Galloway hills but a couple of days of claggy weather made me abandon the hills and instead keep walking along the Way. I absolutely loved it and ended up walking from Glentrool village to Sanquhar. So in May 2024, I walked the next section from Sanquhar to Galashiels and loved it even more. So the obvious thing to do with one of my May holiday weeks this year was to walk another section. So off I headed on the train to Stranraer to walk from the start of the Way at Portpatrick to Glentrool village to connect with my first section. It's all topsy turvy of course. I did the middle section at the beginning then the beginning in the middle. At least I will be able to complete the end section at the actual end. 

I have often looked at the map and wondered what Portpatrick is like. It seemed such a far away place tucked away in the southwest part of Scotland. Stepping off the morning bus from Stanraer, I eventually found out. It's a picturesque little spot with quaint waterfront buildings wrapped around a rocky harbour. Today the harbour walls enclosed a calm, glassy sea. 

At the far side of the harbour, is a beautiful sculpture that marks the start of the Southern Upland Way. I felt oddly emotional standing there that morning, like I was meeting a dear, old friend after time apart. 

Portpatrick's charm was quickly left behind as the path headed north, undulating along the rugged Galloway coast. There were vertigo-inducing sections and a rough detour to avoid an incoming tide that rewarded with a beautiful bluebell wood. 

Eventually the trail reached Killantringan Lighthouse and turned east, starting its long journey to the opposite coast at Cockburnspath. My next section onwards to Castle Kennedy mostly used tiny, little farm roads which were pleasing on the eye but rather tough on the feet. It was a relief to eventually pick up woodland tracks near Castle Kennedy then a lovely grassy path across moorland that left the world behind and provided the first night's camp spot. Next morning, a weak sun penetrated mist that hung over the nearby trees and coated the spiders' webs in the grasses with droplets of dew.

After packing up, the route ahead was really lovely walking as the trail passed into bluebell woods alive with birdsong. Soon I came upon the Glenwhan Clootie Tree, tucked away in the forest. Clootie Trees are of Celtic origin and were often located close to streams or springs where it was believed spirits lived. Clootie is an old word for a cloth and the custom was to use a cloth to wash a wound in the sacred water. The cloth was then tied to the tree and as it disintegrated over time, the wound or ailment would vanish.

After Glenwhan, the route crossed the open expanse of Cruise Back Fell with the distant Galloway hills just starting to rise to the north. It was a wonderful walk across the moor here, meandering over wild pasture under big skies. Large piles of stones signified the remains of Iron Age forts which contrasted with the modern structures of wind farms that had appeared on the horizon. 

Soon the path passed into dense forestry just as I was starting to look for a camp spot for the night. All of a sudden, a wooden teepee-like structure appeared through the trees. It turned out to be Beehive Bothy. It was surrounded by open meadow, had a little stream close by and even a picnic bench so it was a perfect spot to pitch the tent. The peace and quiet were intense, the only sound the birds which included a grasshopper warbler somewhere in the longer grasses. It was a beautiful place to chill out in warm evening sunshine and to enjoy a slower start to the day the next morning.

As with the other sections of the Southern Upland Way, I had seen almost nobody on the trail. However, as I was packing up in the morning, another walker ambled in. He was walking the Southern Upland Way from Castle Kennedy to Cockburnspath then heading down the coast path to Berwick-upon-Tweed. I was envious of his long journey ahead, all that time wandering on foot and being out in nature. We would end up dovetailing with each other along the route for the rest of that day. 

After the bothy, the trail soon passed by the Laggangarn Standing Stones, thought to have marked the route over the moor for 4000 years. There was then a stiff climb over Craig Airie Fell. I sat a while on top looking over the extensive view. A wind farm was under construction down below. This section of the walk must have felt really remote before the construction. It's a shame that feeling is now lost as we all need to lose ourselves from the modern world on occasion.

Beyond Craig Airie Fell, the Way zig-zagged onwards across the countryside, through the woods and over the fields before eventually making the gentle climb up Glenvernoch Fell. I joined the walker I met earlier on the bench at the top and we sat for ages having a good blether and putting the world to rights. Eventually he carried on and I took some time to absorb the surroundings. The Galloway hills were close in now but few signs of modern man were visible. Skylarks sang in the blue skies above and the grasses swayed gently in the wind. This was not a remote spot but it had an incredibly isolated, wild feel about it. I found it hard to tear myself away and could have sat there forever. But there was no water so I needed to keep going. A gentle descent took me down to Bargrennan where it was a bit of a shock to cross the first busy road since Castle Kennedy. A little way further on, I was soon wrapped up in trees again and found a pitch for the tent with water close by.

The final day of this section was a few hours of walking to Glentrool village to arrive back where I'd started two years before. It was a stunning walk through moss-covered, knarly old woods that echoed with the maniacal call of a green woodpecker. 

I picked up some treasure here. All along the Southern Upland Way are secret kists that contain commemorative coins. Where there is a kist, a marker post will have the word "Ultreia" on it and you have to hunt nearby to find the kist. This one was an elaborate affair. The coins were contained within a jar which you had to pull up by a string from within a wooden sculpture, the inside of which was only revealed when you turned aside the top block of the sculpture! 

It was fun to find my coin but I don't think it was enough to cover the bus fare back from Glentrool at the end of the walk.

Fact File

All the photos on FLICKR.

Start: Portpatrick by bus from Stranraer (Stagecoach 367) where I travelled to by train.

Finish: Glentrool village for a bus to Girvan (Stagecoach 359) to rejoin the rail network for a train home. This is a really lovely bus journey by the way.

Route: Used the Southern Upland Way which is well described on Walkhighlands.

Additional information: The only services on this section were a Spar within the petrol station at Castle Kennedy and then the cafe at Glen Trool at the end. It was quite tricky to find water and camp spots but in a couple of places householders had signs at their gate and an outdoor tap that you could use.