Was never good for man nor beast.
So never think to cast a clout,
Until the month of May be out.
Ne'er cast a clout is a wonderful old saying that is so very true. It means don't pack your winter clothes away until May is over. Many people believe "May" refers to the mayflower or hawthorn rather than the month itself as hawthorn blossoms in May. Either way, the phrase was in my mind for this early May backpacking trip to the Cairngorms. It was very cold for the season!
My trip started out of Braemar with a wonderful walk west through the fabulous Morrone Birkwood. Here a little path meanders through the spring birch trees and all the while you are gazing to the distant horizon to the glimmering, snow-streaked Cairngorms.
The birch woods then give way to the Scots pine woods on the Mar Lodge estate which is owned by the National Trust for Scotland. They are doing a fabulous job rewilding the place. Every time I visit, the little pine trees seem to have crept higher and higher up the hillside. It was a decent way up Carn na Criche before I climbed passed the last of the trees.
I love the top of Carn na Criche for some strange reason. I'm not sure why as it's not a significant peak for hereabouts. It's a steady pull then a pleasant amble on a carpet of wind-clipped turf across high, open ground to the top. It feels wild, remote and lonely. I always have the place to myself. And as I so often say, it's a small peak but slightly isolated from the larger peaks all around so it has an uninterrupted panoramic view. Just as I was approaching the top, a squall of snow blew in and I was glad I was wearing my "clout".
I dropped off the northeast shoulder of the hill, a rough, boggy walk, to pick up a path through to Glen Gairn. It passes through an atmospheric cleft in the hills which is un-named on the OS map though I call it Ouzel Pass because in summer there are abundant ring ouzels here. The ring ouzel is similar to a blackbird but has a necklace of white feathers and likes higher, rockier places. The pass is perfect for them. As usual, their distinctive calls echoed from the rock walls as I walked through the pass.
It's such an atmospheric place with steep scree slopes and a floor jumbled by huge boulders. A little stream meanders through and is a pleasant companion for a slow saunter. Evening was moving in now and I was ready to make my second camp of the trip. I made sure I was well beyond the ring ouzels before pitching.
It was a bitterly cold night and I woke in the morning to a frozen tent. But the day had dawned bright and calm, perfect for a climb up Ben Avon. Having previously climbed Ben Avon via the bealach between it and Beinn a'Bhuird, I chose a different route this time. The map showed a path leaving Glen Gairn and ascending beside the Allt an Eas Mhoir. I chose this route and it was beautiful. The river, swollen by snow melt and sparkled by the sun, tumbled down from the plateau above. Its gully was still filled with deep snow in places. Here and there the river had carved snow tunnels which always fascinate me. Up ahead the snow became more extensive, eventually broadening out into a large snowfield. Then two golden eagles appeared overhead, circling silently above me for several minutes. It was wild and magical. Soon I found myself walking across the large snowfield on the plateau itself. What a place that day. The rocky tor on Ben Avon's summit rose dramatically above the snow, weak sun filtered through the clouds and I had the place to myself.
I could see the weather was changing though with a front moving in from the west. I ate lunch quickly among the cold stacks of rocks on the summit then descended, using the bealach route to come down. Even here, there were deep gullies of snow to cross and fragile snow bridges over the streams.
It had been a beautiful walk that day on Ben Avon and, content with at least one mountain day, I spent the next couple of days enjoying the pinewoods. It's so wonderful to wander slowly through this old place, to hear the wind in the trees, the gush of the river and the bird song of spring. It's totally rejuvenating.
I lingered a while at the Linn of Quoich and the Punchbowl, the hollowed-out rock feature in the river. It was lovely to see the little lodge here had been renovated by the National Trust and unlocked for you to have a wee nosey inside. It's said Queen Victoria took her picnics here.
A after a good poke around the pinewoods, it was time to retrace my steps to Braemar. A chilly north wind blew through the village while I was waiting for my bus home and I was glad again that I hadn't "cast my clout".
All the photos on Flickr
Public transport: Train to Dundee then the Ember Dundee to Aberdeen bus via Braemar.
My route: West from Braemar through Morrone Birkwood. The end of the path connects to a forest trail which eventually joins the wee road from Braemar to Linn of Dee. A short walk along this quiet road took me to Victoria Bridge which enabled me to cross the Dee onto the Mar Lodge estate. After the bridge, I took the forest track to the right which eventually connects with the track up Glen Quoich and to the Linn of Quoich. Crossed the Quoich at the Punchbowl and took the track heading north behind the wee lodge. After a stream crossing, a fainter track leaves it to the right to climb the hill and soon a small path leaves this track. It climbs most of the way to the top of Carn na Criche before turning south. It's pathless to the top then down the other side as well to join the path that comes up from Gleann an t-Slugain. Followed this path north before the taking path to the south of Carn Eag Dubh into Glen Gairn. Climbed Ben Avon via the path on the OS marked beside Allt an Eas Mhoir and descended via the path further west beside Glas Allt Mor. Passed back over Carn na Criche (cos I do love that hill!) and wandered the pinewoods of Glen Quoich and through Clais Fhearnaig before retracing my steps to Braemar.
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