Dunkeld - Home from home in the hills

A track leaves the train station, creeps under the busy traffic on the A9 then follows the Inchewan Burn towards the banks of the River Tay. It turns left and says hello to the old Birnam Oak before following the river upstream to the Telford Bridge, whose pretty arches take it over the fast-flowing water. It now passes through the charming bustle of Dunkeld, whose narrow main street is lined by cafés and shops that sell slippers in the shape of pheasants. Then before long, the track has left tarmac and is climbing up into the woods. There’s a surprisingly quick transition from town to a rugged landscape of woods, lochs, pasture and craggy hills. And as you walk further and further away from town, the atmosphere becomes wild and empty, especially in the winter snows which is my favourite time to go. I don’t know technically what this area of beautiful little hills above Dunkeld is called but to me it’s heaven and a home from home, as I’m there so often.   

I was there in early November. After arriving on a late train, my friend Graham and I made an overnight camp high on Birnam Hill.  We watched a stunning moon rise from our tents.  Its initial blood red colour changed to orange and then through the rest of the night, it cast a sliver light through the woods and made nightime shadows of the trees. Next day we walked the track out of Dunkeld and climbed the little rocky peak of Deuchary Hill.  It was marvellous to be up there, soaking up the last of the autumn colours and enjoying the airy views to the bigger peaks to the north.

And I was back myself in late November. I walked far across a snow-peppered, wind-scoured boreal landscape and pitched the tent in the last of the light by a partially frozen loch. Next day, I climbed the lonely little peak of Meall Reamhar before the morning rays of the sun disappeared behind the shelf of low cloud. It felt empty and remote up here despite being only four hours walk away from Dunkeld. With snow underfoot and a heavy winter pack on my back, the walk back was more like five hours. By the time I was ambling along the main street, I needed a café. Maybe even a pair of slippers.

Fact file
Public transport: Regular trains stop at Dunkeld on the Highland line.
Route: Out of the train station follow the walking signs into Birnam which bring you out at the Beatrix Potter garden, Opposite here is a signed path to the Birnam Oak. At the river turn left for Dunkeld and cross the river on the main bridge. Continue through the main street and turn right up the A923 (there's a footpath). Then take the signed right of way to the left. This track takes you to Mill Dam and onto Loch Ordie or Deuchary Hill and a network of paths. Beyond Loch Ordie rougher paths extend north and I took these. I camped beside Loch Oissinneach and climbed Meall Reamhar from here from the bealach between it and Creag Gharbh. It was rough walking.