Black Mount - The Way

In the last blog, I used a fledgling section of the West Highland Way long distance path as it started its journey out of Milngavie. Soon after, I found myself on it again. Much farther north this time, where it had matured into a rugged route that traversed mountain terrain. I used it to walk from the train at Bridge of Orchy into the Black Mount hills for a few days of camping and hillwalking. 

I'd maybe two hours of daylight left as I stepped off the afternoon train and used them to walk over the high pass, Mam Carraig, then to detour alongside the waters of the Abhainn Shira to a camp spot I'd used before. As I pitched the tent, the last rays from the sinking sun cast an Alpenglow on the snow-capped peaks that rose above. A cold night followed which left the winter's first frost on the tent next morning. 

I packed up and started the steep climb up Stob a Choire Odhair, a Munro in the Black Mount range that rises above the wooded shorelines of Loch Tulla. 

Higher up it was good to feel boots on snow and enjoy the wintry panoramas from the top. The snow picked out the coires and ridgelines, and contrasted with the lingering, rich tones of autumn. It was bitterly cold on the top so I didn't linger long before descending and rejoining the West Highland Way.

I wanted to wander the section of the Way that headed north across the moor here. And I'd a hankering for the moor's big, boreal, barren-ness. The stony track under my feet as I walked north was one of Telford's Parliamentary roads. These were built in the early 19th century as the old military roads had fallen into disrepair and were not suitable for the increasing amounts of commercial traffic. It served as the main road north until 1933. 

Today it carries the West Highland Way from Inveroran through to Kingshouse and it's a lovely section. On your right as you walk north, the flat bog of Rannoch Moor stretches eastwards, its emptiness and simplicity beautiful in their own way. On your left, the rocky peaks of the Black Mount rise sharply above, a medley of foreboding, rock ridges and snow. These hills spawn the River Ba which crosses under the Way at the old Ba Bridge. It's a pleasant spot with a rocky gorge and a cluster of golden birch trees. I pitched the tent here on one of the few non-boggy spots for miles and watched the light fade beyond the hills.

My third day was a walk back south along the Way to catch a homeward train with a detour up a little hill called Ben Inverveigh. It's only 639m high but I loved walking there. Its summit is set far back at the west end of its ridge which penetrates into wild country. Its pathless, little visited slopes felt wilder and more rugged than the well-trodden Munro I was on the day before. Also these small, isolated hills can often afford wonderful views of their bigger neighbours. So it was with Ben Inverveigh which overlooked the Black Mount hills and the Ben Starav group. They appeared to the north as a snow-dusted, sweeping wave of high ground.

There was one more detour from the Way before the train and that was into the Bridge of Orchy Hotel for a quick supper. The hotel is a bit of a legend in hillwalking circles and, despite it being gentrified over recent years, it's still largely populated by grubby walkers with muddy boots and noses sniffly from the cold. It was just as well. Knowing I was having my tea out, I'd kept myself pristine for the three days in the hills but somehow managed to step into a peat bog about 50 metres from the hotel. I arrived for dinner as black as the Black Mount hills.

Fact File

More photos on Flickr: click HERE

Start/finish: Bridge of Orchy

Public transport: Citylink bus or train to Bridge of Orchy from Glasgow

My route: Followed the WHW path out of the station (turn left on exiting) and to Forest Lodge. Turned left here (signed Loch Etive) to camp first night a little way up the river and pick up the path up Stob a Choire Odhair just after the old school house tin hut. After the hill returned to Forest Lodge then took the WHW north, camping at Ba Bridge where there are a few good grassy spots for tents. There wasn't much before that. On the way back to Bridge of Orchy on the WHW, a grassy track leaves to the right at Mam Carraig, the high point between Inveroran and Bridge of Orchy. It peters out where it gains the ridge but it's pleasant walking along the ridge to the top of Ben Inverveigh.