Trossachs - Reflection perfection

As usual, due to lack of time and a desire not to add to the hours of screen time generated by the working day, my blog has been stuck in the past. Winter arrived here in a flurry of snow and storms but then left again to be replaced by weather more like summer. But this blog goes back to autumn for several days of bikepacking from Dumbarton through the Trossachs to Perth. One of the days was the most perfect autumn day.

Grey, cold weather greeted us however as we wheeled loaded bikes off the train at Dumbarton Central and pedaled to Balloch then onto Drymen. It was wonderful cycling though as we traveled along quiet lanes that undulated through the countryside, each rise opening up a view to Ben Lomond. Here and there we were wrapped up in trees as the route became a cycle path through the autumn woods. 

We were glad we stopped at Drymen for coffee and cake before the stiff climb over the hill to Aberfoyle, though we left the road before then, picking up a section of the Rob Rob Way. It's always nice to get off the road and this section was a really enjoyable ride along forest tracks that took us deep into Loch Ard Forest. Though mostly plantation, there were enough deciduous trees to create some autumn colours and these lined the little loch that we camped beside late in the day. 

The second day of the trip couldn't have been a more perfect autumn day with sunshine, clear blue skies and not a breath of wind. A thin veil of mist hung over our little loch as we made breakfast then packed up the tents and loaded the bikes. A winding route up forest tracks took us over Duke's Pass. Sunny, golden birch woods intermingled with the punchy red of rowan berries gave to way to the dark green of conifers. But the top of the pass afforded views through the trees to the rugged hills all around and it was wonderful to be up high on bikes on such a gorgeous day.  

As we began the descent down the other side, we were literally stopped in our tracks by the scenes at Loch Drunkie. With not a ripple on the surface, it was a mirror loch with perfect reflections of the lochside trees. It couldn't have been more beautiful.

We continued our descent to Loch Vennacher and cycled the trail along its south shore before picking up the bike path that travels along the line of the old Callander to Oban railway. The railway opened in the late 19th century to connect Callander with Oban via Crianlarich but sadly closed in 1965. That may seem like a long time ago but my dad remembers travelling on the train which brings it within touching distance of the present. Though it's a shame to have lost the trains, it is a wonderful bike ride.

The old line travels along Loch Lubnaig then climbs gently up through Glen Ogle. The steep-sided glen is dotted with woods and ancient rockfalls that have left huge boulders scattered across the hillside. We camped up here among birch trees, just to the side of the track. As day faded to night, it was impossible to resist screwing up your eyes and trying to imagine a steam train chugging up the incline. But the only thing moving along the line after dark were the bats who were using its open air space to catch insects.

Next morning we continued up the line, passing over the fine viaduct that signals the approach of the top of the pass. From here it was a wonderful descent to Killin that twisted down through plantation pines then pretty autumn woods. We were freezing by the bottom and glad of a pot of hot tea and a second breakfast at a cafe in the village. 

From Killin we cycled along the quiet road on the south side of Loch Tay. The views were lovely here over the steely grey water and autumn colours lined our route. At Ardtalnaig we turned off and climbed up into the hills. The little farm road was too steep to cycle and we pushed all the way up to the last of the cottages where the road became dirt track and leveled out enough for getting back on the bikes. This track took us through to the head of Glen Almond, a wild and lonely place where grey clouds gathered and spits of rain fell. A portent of the following day's weather.

Some rough ground around the watershed gave way to a good cycle-able track all the way down the rest of the glen though we pitched the tents at the first good spot we found, beside the ruin of Lechrea. The final day of the trip was a contrast to our perfect day in the Trossachs with torrential rain as we cycled to Perth to catch a train home. The only reflections, of two soggy cyclists, were in the puddles.

Fact File

Start: Dumbarton Central train station (train from Edinburgh via Glasgow, bike booking not necessary)

Finish: Perth train station (train back to Edinburgh, bike booking not necessary if it's a train that starts in Perth)

Route: Out of the station, we essentially followed national cycle route 7 from Dumbarton to Ardtalnaig, although we detoured into Loch Ard Forest on the Rob Roy Way and re-joined the cycle route in Aberfoyle. The route through to Glen Almond from Ardtalnaig has a right of way marker post at the start and was all cycle-able except the initial push to the last farmhouse and a very short section at the top of the pass which was a bit rutted and muddy but not too bad at all. At the bottom of Glen Almond we turned south down the Sma' Glen which although an A road is relatively quiet. We then took back roads to Pitcairngreen where cycle route signs then took us on a lovely route into Perth city centre and the train station.