Cairngorms - Through the foothills

The Cairngorms massif is an extensive plateau, dotted by distinct up-swellings that form the named peaks and cut through by deep, rocky defiles that have provided corridors through the mountains for millenia. To the north of the main massif is a cluster of lesser peaks that I always think of as the foothills of the Cairngorms as they form gentler ground that transitions from the mountains to the Spey Valley and Aviemore below. On this trip, with gales scouring the higher tops, a wander through these foothills proved a good alternative. 

We set out from the ski centre down the Allt Mor path, meandering through the pines to cross the river at the bridge. I love the path onwards from here. You climb back up above the trees and walk along a ridge towards the Chalamain Gap with the Northern Corries stretched out on your left. Today the corries were dusted with snow and afternoon sun picked out the contours of the crumpled land at their feet. A medley of light and shadow.

We skipped the bouldery traverse of the Chalamain Gap on this occasion, instead climbing steeply onto the little peak above - Creag A'Chalamain, one of the foothills that is really rewarding. The sun was sinking now and the afternoon light was soft and golden. 

Ahead in shadow was the deep cut of the Lairig Ghru pass and our path down to the crossing point of the Allt Druidh. It's here that the river flows beneath the giant boulders that you step over, making for an easy crossing. The Lairig Ghru rose above us now, its foreboding rock walls and boulder-strewn bottom turned into a monochrome landscape by the snow. All the more delightful to see a pair of brightly coloured bullfinches flitting about here in contrast to the brutal architecture of the pass. A little way down the river on the other side, we found our camp spot for the night. It was a place we'd used before and we were glad we knew it was there as the light was fading fast. 

Next day, we continued through the foothills and pulled ourselves up onto Carn Odhar which rose above our camp spot of the night before. What a place this was on that day. Low cloud smothered the higher peaks, sleety rain blew through and the atmosphere was bleak, barren and empty. Just the way I like it! The top of Carn Odhar came easily after the initial steep pull above the river though the crossing of the outflow from a cluster of lochans up here proved tricky.

We walked on across rough, pathless terrain, crossing the south shoulder of Carn Eilrig, another foothill. As the sleet had turned to rain and intensified, we decided to skip the climb up the hill and instead headed south to pick up the Beanaidh Beag which flows from one of Braeriach's corries high above. After more rough walking, we eventually picked up a semblance of a path that delivered us onto the main track through Gleann Eanaich. Where we met the pine woods, we pitched the tents, glad to be out of the rain. 

At some point in the night, that rain turned to light snow so our morning camp spot was dusted in white. It formed a soft carpet and a magical atmosphere for the rest of the walk out to Aviemore. 

Fact File

Start: Cairngorm ski centre
Finish: Coylumbridge
Public transport: Train from Edinburgh to Aviemore. Local bus, number 30, from Aviemore outside the railway station to the ski centre. Our timings were lucky so we also jumped on the bus back at Coylumbridge, cutting out a bit of the walk into Aviemore.
My route: From the ski centre took the Allt Mor path down to the bridge over the river. At time of writing, a notice advised there was a landslip on the path. We had no difficulty crossing this. Followed the path on the other side of the bridge towards the Chalamain Gap, veering off at the start of the Gap to climb Creag A'Chalamain then rejoining the path on the far side. This path descends to the crossing of the Allt Druidh below the Lairig Ghru. No paths for the next section. We climbed the hillside on the other side of the river, arriving at Lochan Odhar then walked north to Carn Odhar. Then headed southwest to meet the Beanaidh Beag and followed it down into Gleann Eanaich to join the main track through the glen. This continues eventually to Coylumbridge.