Dunkeld - The bag lady

Goretx Paclite. Goretex Pro. Hydrophobic down. Softshell and Activeshell. With so many high performance fabrics available to keep us dry in the outdoors, there was really no excuse for ending up with plastic bags on my feet the other weekend.

Bike buddy Graham and I were cycling in the hills above Dunkeld, soaking up the last of the autumn colours and getting a good soaking into the bargain. On a grey day we powered our way up the Queen's Road, lingering a short while by the glass-like waters of Mill Dam. 

 

Beyond here we sploshed our way along water-logged tracks and trails, and when heavy rain came on, we were already so wet that it didn't really seem to matter. They say this is good weather for ducks but even the ducks around here felt the need for extra rain protection and had sprouted very strange feather headwear. We almost fell off our bikes laughing at them. 

High up in the hills and woods after a grim afternoon of rain, mud and pushing bikes, it was tempting to stay in the cosy bothy, put the fire on and dry out but we pushed on and put the tents up on a carpet of golden needles below a copse of larch trees.

It was still wet next morning and I realised I hadn't packed my waterproof Sealskinz socks. Readers should  note that Sealskinz are completely synthetic and that no animals were harmed in the making of this blog. Without them, the only way to at least start with dry feet, was to put plastic bags inside my shoes. 

As we cycled back down and passed again the ducks, I could see their beady, little eyes resting on my feet. I knew they were thinking "who's laughing now".

Fact File
Start/finish: Dunkeld Station served by Glasgow/Edinburgh to Inverness trains
Map: OS Landranger 52
Route: Fom the station cycle down into Birnam and turn left on the main road. At the next junction turn right and cycle through the main street in Dunkeld. At the far side turn right onto the A923 then take a quick left onto a forest road signed as a right of way to Kirkmichael. Climb this track to Mill Dam and continue to Loch Ordie. Pass in front of Loch Ordie Lodge following a track around the loch but at the east end stay on the main track and head away from the lochside. Take the left split in the track and follow it north behind Capel Hill. It becomes increasingly rough and then a footpath. Progress is hard here but the woods are lovely. Follow this trail north to Lochan Oisinneach where you'll find a gorgeous camp spot on a little knoll above the water with a copse of larch trees. Follow the trail which becomes a better track as it turns south passing Lochan Oisinneach Mor and returns to Loch Ordie. Retrace outward route
Tip: The tracks and trails above Dunkeld are great for cycling with lots of route options. I only had to do some pushing because of the conditions underfoot and because my pannier bags were catching on tall trailside heather where the trail was very narrow.

Perthshire - Postcards from the edge

When I’m travelling north to my beloved Scottish Highlands, there are two places on that journey that I feel mark a transition in both topography and atmosphere. It’s here that low-lying farmlands give way to wilder mountains and my anticipation starts to build ahead of the next outdoor adventure. Those two places are Callander and Dunkeld, and they stand on the very edge of the Highlands.  Last weekend, I decided to join them up by bicycle and take a ride along the edge. 

I was cycling not just along the edge of the Highlands but also along the edge of summer as it begins to give way to autumn, signalled by the clusters of red berries on the rowans. It must have been a good summer for berries as the trees and hedgerows are absolutely festooned with them.

On a back road above Callander the high mountains were tantalisingly close.

Loch Lubnaig is a real mountain loch, extending a long finger north of Callander into bigger hills.

The trail alongside the loch forms a beautiful green tunnel of trees. Note to self – must get back here in autumn to enjoy some “peak foliage”.

Much of my route followed the national cycle network and all over the network you come upon these marker posts of varying designs. I liked this one which, much like me, looked ruffled by the wind and rain.

North of Loch Lubnaig and beyond Balquidder, my route followed the old railway line that passes high above Lochearnhead and climbs up through Glen Ogle. For me, Glen Ogle has always had a slightly mystical atmosphere. Perhaps it’s the lingering aura of the old steam trains that once chugged through here.

I have a favourite secret spot for camping at the head of Glen Ogle. Each time I go, it becomes more secret as the trees grow and close in. 

I’ve never been especially impressed by the Falls of Dochart at Killin but presumably many other people are as they are forever appearing in those Scottish calendars that hang in chip shops and takeaways. 

The elements above Loch Tay have worn away the walls of this old ruin. It’s certainly opened up the view.

The single track road along the south side of Loch Tay is cycle heaven. Mind you, it’s not flat.

I was really charmed by the old cemetery at Ardtalnaig on the shores of Loch Tay with its lichened stones resting at jaunty angles.

Kenmore was sure looking pretty on a sunny Sunday morning.

There are beautiful trails to cycle in this part of Perthshire like this route alongside the River Tay that took me the final couple of miles into Dunkeld.

I’ve always liked Dunkeld for its pretty cottages and little alleys but I’m growing to love it now that the chip shop does gluten-free fish suppers.

Too many fish suppers can certainly lay on the pounds. If I ever get as round as my camp spot visitor, somebody please have a word with me!

Fact file

Start: Bridge of Allan train station on the Stirling/Dunblane line. 

Finish: Perth train station
Maps: OS Landranger 57, 51, 52

Route: From the rail station in Bridge of Allan turn west on the main road then take the first left onto a farm road signed for Carse of Lecropt. Follow this delightful single track road which has some lovely views to the B824 and then into Doune. From there take the deserted B8032 to Callander. In Callander pick up National Cycle Route 7 beside the river. It travels north on a beautiful, mostly off-road route alongside Loch Lubnaig, through Glen Ogle and into Killin. Keep on route 7 as it travels along the south shore of Loch Tay and then on quiet roads beside the River Tay. There's so much to see along here - the river, castles, old bridges and pleasant villages. Route 7 junctions with Route 77 at Balnamuir beside Logierait – follow route 77 south to Dunkeld and onto Perth where it enters the city on a lovely riverside cycle path.

Tip: I’m mostly a wild camper but I’ve come to really like the campground at Inver beside Dunkeld. It’s on a wee farm with real charm and is right beside the River Braan, surrounded by trees. From the campground it’s a nice walk or cycle into Dunkeld for coffee and comestibles.

Dunkeld - 50 shades of grey

Sadomasochism: noun, the gaining of gratification by enduring pain. Yep, that pretty much describes backpacking in the Scottish winter. Lugging a heavy pack up a hill through deep snow and risking frostbite in your hands to open a packet of chocolate-coated raisins. Or dunking your head in a freezing river to rescue hair that’s gone as flat as fuzzy felt after several hours under a hat. All in the cause of soaking up the snow season. So I’m sorry if the title of this blog was in any way misleading and you were expecting some kinky, erotic fiction. The truth is that it’s only me in thermal long-johns and a sensible vest wandering the hills on a couple of grey days in January.

With a new job in the bag, I took advantage of my last days of freedom and jumped off a train at Dunkeld into a mid-week monochrome morning. As the guard will advise you in advance, there is a “very low platform” at Dunkeld which requires you to abseil from the train to alight safely. The village was plastered with fresh snow but low, heavy skies created an eerie twilight that stripped the landscape of any colour except shades of grey. I walked along the main street where the gloom was lifted a little by the warm glow emanating from the village shops - the delicatessen, the butcher, the little supermarket, the homewares store. A strand of grey wood smoke from the hearth of some cosy cottage hung in the still air.   

I keep coming back to Dunkeld, drawn there by the beauty of the surrounding landscapes. To the north you can amble endlessly through an idyllic mix of small pastures, woods and tree-fringed lochs before emerging in high, airy and rugged terrain. Up here it feels surprisingly remote, even though you’ve only walked a couple of hours from the village. In the bleak mid-winter there is a truly wild atmosphere and when I’m alone here, I feel like the only person in the world. This day I wandered for hours, snow crunching under my boots, then put my tent up in a copse of pines in the last of the useable light. In the grey January weather it was impossible to tell exactly when daylight ended and darkness began. I slept well despite the overhead rustle of birds restless in their roost.

The next day again dawned grey with a gripping cold that froze my fingers when I took my gloves off to spark up the stove. It’s always difficult to get going in the morning on cold, winter camps as the temptation is strong to stay snuggled in your sleeping bag where the inside climate is always cosy. But once I’d warmed up with coffee and porridge, I packed up and set out for the goal of my expedition, Deuchary Hill. It’s not a big mountain but today, with its pointy little top plastered in snow, it looked like a miniature Alpine peak.

I climbed up through a winter wonderland of fresh, powder snow that had settled in big dollops on the branches of the trees. The dark skies blocked out the sun except for a narrow band of peachy light on the southerly horizon. The only other colours in the landscape were those of nature’s subtle winter palette - the hints of purple in the bare birch and orange in the larch. In the cold, grey day not much life moved. A crow mobbed a buzzard. Two mute swans took off from the frozen waters of the loch. Three roe deer cleared snow with their hooves to munch meagre grazing. A lone walker lugged a big pack to the top of Deuchary Hill and ate a packet of chocolate –coated raisins.

Fact File

Start/finish: Dunkeld & Birnam Rail Station served by the Edinburgh/Glasgow to Inverness trains.

Map:OS Landranger 52

Route: From the train station head into Dunkeld, across the Tay, through the village on the main street then turn right on the Blairgowrie road. After 200m turn left onto the Right of Way signed for Kirkmichael and follow the track to Mill Dam. There are many possibilities for routes from here. To climb Deuchary Hill take the upper Loch Ordie path to the right immediately before Mill Dam. It’s a beautiful path especially in autumn that contours the hill. At Grid Ref NO 024 491 there is a path junction – turn right to climb the hill.

Tip: There is a great wee deli/coffee shop on the main street in Dunkeld styled like a traditional merchant, perfect for picking up nibbles for the train ride home.