Somehow over the outdoor years, I'd missed getting up a well-known hill that's a bit of a legend in hillwalking circles and beyond. It's Goatfell, a rugged Corbett in the north of the island of Arran. I'd admired it from afar from Bute and Cumbrae, when its rocky peaks and ridges had drifted ethereally above the Firth of Clyde on a layer of sea mist. And I had cycled on Arran itself but never lingered, always being en route to Kintyre or the boat to Islay and Jura. Mind you, I'm glad that I saved it for the weekend of a friend's 50th birthday celebrations, because I don't think there could have been a more perfect day.
The birthday group had arrived on Arran the afternoon before on the ferry from Ardrossan. The boat had crossed the deep blue waters of the Firth of Clyde, ploughing a course for Brodick, a scatter of houses along the island shore. Sitting outside on the deck, it was sunny and clear with a great view to Goatfell. But it was bracing out at sea, so jackets were pulled out from rucksacks for extra warmth. We crossed fingers that the following day would be as good. It was.
The ascent started with a walk along the beach and then a dog-leg through the woods to pick up the "tourist route" at the pretty cluster of cottages at Cladach. Cool, dappled woods gave way to heather moorland which ended at a steep, rocky pull to the top. The views were superb to the islands of Bute, Cumbrae and Little Cumbrae, drifting off the Clyde coast. The rugged Kintyre peninsula straggled along the western horizon and beyond it popped up the pimples of the Paps of Jura. The sea was topaz and the land summer green.
Immediately in front of us was the jumbled rock architecture of Arran's other hills, North Goatfell, Cir Mhor and the A'Chir Ridge. Whilst most of the group returned by the route of ascent, my friend Graham and I set out along the Stacach Ridge to North Goatfell. This was an enjoyable, if tricky, walk. There were a couple of awkward down-scrambling sections, with long steps beyond the reach of my five feet of height, and the hands-on requirement meant that the rough granite grated your skin.
We were glad to reach the Saddle to pick up the path for the long walk back down through Glen Rosa. The glen was green and lush at the height of summer and beautifully framed by pointy Cir Mhor.
The following day's walk, before catching the ferry home, was a lot more gentle with a pleasant amble around the Machrie Moor Stone Circles. The good weather had been replaced by low, grey cloud and spots of rain, all of which created a suitable mystical atmosphere for enjoying the ancient Stones. It's a decent walk there as well, being set quite far back from the access point.
The stone circles and their associated burial cairns and field systems, date from Neolithic times, between 3,500 and 1,500 years ago. But it's believed the area has been in use for religious and ceremonial activities since 4,500 years ago. The site is extensive, spread across the open moor and looking across Arran's hills with the sea stretched out behind.
After a long wander around the stones, we indulged in our own ceremony of post-walk coffee and cake before catching the ferry back.
Fact File
More photos on Flickr - click HERE.
Start/finish: Primary school in Brodick
Public transport: Train to Ardrossan connecting to ferry from Ardrossan to Brodick on Arran.
My route: The cottage we were staying in was close to the primary school and about 20 mins walk from the ferry. Opposite the school a path heads through trees to the beach and at the far, where a burn flows out, there is a bridge. Re-cross the road at Cladach and the main path up Goatfell is signed here. The path is obvious (and busy) as it climbs to the top of Goatfell. Continued north along Stacach Ridge and where it drops to the Saddle the path down through Glen Rose can be picked up. This returns to the school.