Sunday 21 June 2020

Edinburgh - The Queensferry ride

I finished the ride in my last blog by coming along the coast to the east of Portobello but another of my favourite lockdown cycles runs along the coast to the west of Portobello. It’s an out and back ride with the turnaround point being one of Scotland’s most iconic views. 

I start by cycling west along the prom here in Portobello so I prefer to do this ride early morning before it gets too busy. I pass through Leith and pick up the Water of Leith walkway for a short stretch before I turn off north to Five Ways junction. Here five different cycle paths meet but I stay north which takes me back to the coast at Trinity. Once I’m passed the warehouses and industrial sites of Granton, the views really open up as I cycle along Silverknowes Esplanade. I’m right beside the sea again and can see up ahead the Forth bridges. 


The esplanade ends at the old village of Cramond. There used to be a small ferry here to cross the River Almond where it empties into the Firth of Forth but these days, I have to cycle a little way upriver to the first bridge. 


On the other side, I’m cycling across Dalmeny Estate and pass into open countryside, so the character of the ride really changes here.


A network of gravel tracks meanders through the estate which is a lovely mix of rolling farmland, coast and broadleaf woodland. There are big views from the open sections of trail, back to the city, across the water and to the Pentland Hills to the south. Further on, the trail hugs the coast again where tall pines form a backdrop to stretches of sandy beach that invite you to get off the bike and sit for a while. Also here is Hound's Point, said to be haunted by the dog of Sir Richard Mowbray who died in the Crusades.


Part of the cycle route sweeps across the landscaped grounds of Dalmeny House, a grand country mansion and home of the Earls of Rosebery. It was completed in 1817 and is still partly a private home, as well as a visitor attraction and event location. In front of the house, manicured lawns sweep down to the sea and views stretch over the Firth of Forth to Fife.


At the western extremity of the estate I pop out of the woods and into South Queensferry right below the iconic Forth Rail Bridge.  Is there a more famous view in Scotland? You never grow out of the childish joy of watching the trains rattle back and forward across the bridge. Of course, every child in Scotland is tricked into thinking that the trains go up and down the sides of the diamonds! 


In normal times, I would likely continue a little way further to grab coffee and cake in South Queensferry but, as everything is closed in lockdown, this is my turnaround point and I cycle back home.