With hindsight, it was a terrible place to pitch the tents but the grassy knoll had been the only dry oasis in miles of bog and heather. Plus the forecast had said the winds would be light but instead they hammered through like a freight train, creating a vortex around the knoll and bending my tent inwards in an alarming fashion. It was 5am in the hills above Brig o'Turk and I was wondering if the tents would remain standing, never mind if I'd be able to cook breakfast in the blasts. But then something magical happened.
I'd been aware when I woke up during the night of there not being full darkness so guessed a decent moon must be up behind the clouds. Then a little before dawn, the winds eased off and I unzipped the tent door to poke my head outside. A stunning sight greeted me. The tents were facing west with an open view from the knoll to the shapely twin peaks of Ben More and Stob Binnein. Above the peaks was an incredibly bright full moon that shone gold rather than silver. Behind it was the thinnest veil of cloud that picked up the golden light of the moon and silhouetted the two peaks. Over the next half hour or so, the moon sank such that it looked like it was rolling down the side of Stob Binnein to set perfectly placed in the bealach between it and Ben More. It was a spectacular moment and the terrible camp spot became the perfect grandstand from which to watch it.
Those overnight winds had cleared the cloud and dense drizzle of the day before when we'd walked in from Brig o'Turk. It hadn't been at all unpleasant as it created a secret, other-worldly atmosphere and we saw not another soul. The colours were monotone and there had been barely a breath of wind to shake the water droplets from the birch branches.
But this second day was a real contrast with brash, bright colours in the cobalt sky, the straw-coloured hillsides and the hi-viz mountain-bikers. Our camp spot had been at the highest point on the Glen Finglas loop so while yesterday's walk was all climbing, today's was mostly downhill.
The low winter sun cast a gentle golden light over the day in the same way the moon had over the night. It encouraged us to linger at the river and brew a second morning coffee before completing the walk out.
Fact File
Public transport: No regular buses to the start but you can use Stirling Council's Demand Responsive Transport service. Alternatively, if you have time, you could take the regular bus from Stirling to Callander and use the Great Trossachs Path to walk to Brig o'Turk.
My route: Took the quiet road that passes through Brig o'Turk and heads uphill. It eventually becomes a dirt track where the public road ends. Passed farm buildings and took the track to the right signed for Balquhidder. Stayed on the track to make a big loop behind Meall Cala and return alongside the Finglas Water which is now bridged where the track crosses it.