The Slate Islands - Cobalt and copper

Cobalt and copper were the colours for my cycle tour south of Oban to the Slate Islands. With the sun still low early in the year, the clear skies were deep cobalt with a few brush strokes of white. And before the first flush of spring greens, the hills held their copper tones from last year's autumn.

The Slate Islands are a cluster of small islands off the west coast of Scotland, south of Oban. I had to cycle over the Atlantic Ocean to get there! Or at least I had to cycle over the bridge over the Atlantic, as the old Clachan Bridge is called. Its single arch crosses the narrow Clachan Sound which, it is said, is directly linked with the Atlantic. In the 18th and 19th centuries the islands had a thriving slate industry that roofed some of our most prestigous buildings such as the cathedrals of Glasgow and Iona, and Castle Stalker. The slate was also exported worldwide. Catastrophic flooding during the great storm of 1850 closed many of the quarries though the industry continued on a smaller scale up to the 1950s when the last slate was cut. 

Cycling across the islands to the tune of skylarks, I wouldn't have guessed at this industrial past. The remains of the quarries are dotted about the place but nature has softened their edges and it's become a peaceful part of the country. The cycling, if short, was wonderful along empty, single track roads surrounded by acres of sea and sky. The Clachan Bridge connected me from the mainland to Seil and little ferries connected Seil with Easdale and with Luing, on the other side of the fast-flowing waters of the Cuan Sound.

Drifting along the road that rises and falls along the top of Luing, I felt a million miles away from the modern world. I pulled into its two main villages, Toberonochy and Cullipool, cycling along the narrow road between rows of quaint whitewashed quarriers' cottages. The island is famous for its indigenous breed of Luing cattle. 

Easdale is also a breed apart when it comes to islands. There are no cars or roads and the ferry is little more than a rowing boat with an engine. The locals move their goods around by wheelbarrow and when I landed at the slate-lined harbour, the first sight that greeted me was a row of wheelbarrows, each with a house number painted on. Easdale is famous these days for hosting the world stone skimming championships. It was easy to see why as I ambled along the shore, crunching over millions of perfectly oval, smooth skimming stones. 

I explored the islands from my base, a quirky little campsite at the Cuan Sound. The comings and goings of the ferry were a pleasant backdrop with its softly rumbling engine and the regular boom of the deck opening onto the slipway. I sat on the headland here with my evening cuppa and watched the sinking sun paint the cobalt sky pink and peach.

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Start/finish: Oban

Public transport: Train to Oban from Glasgow Queen Street

My route: Followed cycle route 78 out of Oban and at the top of the hill, followed cycle signs for Taynuilt then down the west shore of Loch Awe. Half way down, just before Dalavich, I took the road west to Kilmelford which was fab. At Kilmelford I turned left then right for Melfort. Followed the coast road towards Degnish and just before a right of way signed for Armaddy climbs over the hill. It's mostly cyclable, just a couple of very short steep and loose bits. On hitting tarmac again, I headed for the Clachan Bridge onto Seil. The routes for Seil, Luing and Easdale are obvious! Easdale is tiny so I didn't take the bike over. The campsite was at Cuan House, to the right just before the Cuan ferry to Luing. Highly recommended.