Wednesday 10 November 2021

Argyll - Wherever I lay my tent, that's my home

I have to admit that I have pitched my tent in some unusual places over the years but this is mostly when I'm abroad and get caught out late in the day in unfamiliar territory. However, a recent cycling trip here in Scotland ended up with a strange camp spot at the end of the first day!

We'd cycled up from Connel on the fabulous bike route to Ballachulish which is part of the Caledonia Way. Using mostly dedicated cycle paths on the disused railway line, it's always a real treat to ride it with no traffic and fabulous views. At this time of year the autumn colours were lovely too and the hawthorns heavy with red berries. 

Our favourite spot on the route is near Appin where we pass close to the stunning Castle Stalker. The castle was built around the mid 13th century for the Lord of Lorn but changed hands many times before being abandoned by the Campbells in 1800 after which it fell into disrepair. However it was restored in the 1960s so is now fully habitable and open to visitors. It's a beautiful sight, cut off by the sea at high tide and framed by the rugged Morvern hills.

Eventually our bike path arrived in Ballachulish at the platform of the old train station. We had tried to contact campsites in the area but without any luck and couldn't stay with a friend here as they were self-isolating. So the only thing for it was to pitch the tents in the old Ballachulish slate quarry! That might not sound very nice but the quarry has been out of use since 1955 and the area has grown up with a variety of trees and bushes. Some of the quarry has filled with water, so it's a real wildlife haven as well as a lovely walk. There was also a little shelter for cooking out of the rain and 24-hour toilets close by at the Co-op. We did wait until after dark before pitching the tents!

The quarry is actually a fascinating walk in day time. It opened in 1693 and the slate was shipped across the country for roofing and building. At its peak in 1845, it produced 26 million Ballachulish slates. Ballachulish slate had one drawback though compared to its competitors in that it contained iron pyrite crystals which caused rust spots and holes when exposed to the weather. So only the best slates could be used for roofing.

After our unusual night camping in the quarry, we cycled back down the bike route, staying out for a second night at a more conventional pitch in woods by the sea. 


Fact File

Start/finish: Connel train station
Public transport: Trains to Connel
Route: Out of the train station follow cycle route signs in the direction of Fort William. To visit the slate quarries, don't cross the Ballachulish bridge but continue on the cycle path adjacent to the road towards Glen Coe. The quarry is behind the Co-op in Ballachulish. 
Info: There is a nice walk around the old quarry with information signs. 

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