Tuesday, 12 August 2025

Bynack More - Changes that the years bring

I forget sometimes that I've quite a few years under my belt in life and in the outdoors. Then now and again something happens that reminds me of the passing years and the changes they bring. 

I was out for a walk and wild camp up Bynack More in the Cairngorms. The route to get there leaves Glen More and continues through the old pine woods by An Lochan Uaine. Just after the lochan, the trail splits and the right hand branch heads out for the remoter reaches of Strath Nethy and Glen Avon. This section of trail used to cross empty moorland before reaching a simple shelter called Bynack Stable beside a walkers' bridge over the River Nethy. Here's a younger me taking a breather there many years ago.

But my goodness the place had changed since I was last here. Regenerating woods were springing up from the moorland and a cluster of birch trees now made the bridge a pretty little spot. Sadly, Bynack Stable was gone. Blown down in a gale in 2005 apparently!

Not much had changed however for the ascent of Bynack More and like the last time I climbed it, its rocky top was obscured with mist that felt more like stinging rain in a keen wind. 

We descended to Bynack Stable (I guess I'll still call the place by that name) to pitch the tents out of the worst of the wind. Skies cleared as we dropped down and evening sunshine bathed Strath Nethy. The low rays illuminated the heads of the bog cotton as they bobbed in the breeze and the new woods all around glowed in warm, summer sunlight.


Next day was a short walk back to Glen More to enjoy something that hadn't changed over the years ... a mug of tea at the original Glen More cafe.

Fact File
Start/finish: Trail starts for the An Lochan Uaine walk beside the reindeer centre in Glen More. The bus drops off just before this.
Public transport: Train to Aviemore from Edinburgh then Stagecoach bus 32 from Aviemore to Glen More which runs hourly.
Route: This was the usual route up Bynack More as described here. As we took the bus, we started beside the Reindeer Centre - just after it on the Glen More Lodge road, a dirt trail starts on the left.

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