Snowshoeing is one of life’s simple pleasures and a great way to enjoy the snow when it’s here. It’s just so wonderful to strap on the snowshoes and set out across a snowy landscape, feeling free and invincible in your amazing footwear. The other good thing about snowshoeing is that no additional special equipment is needed – you strap them onto your regular walking boots and use your usual trekking poles with their snow baskets on the end. The only other thing needed is snow, so when decent amounts finally arrived, I set off for a snowshoeing weekend with my friend, Graham.
Having jumped off the train at Dalwhinnie, our first day was spent on the slopes of Geal Charn at Drumochter. As soon as we left the track, we strapped on our snowshoes and set a pleasant rhythm climbing uphill. When we stopped to draw breath and look around, we saw the sun punch holes in the cloud and play along the flanks and ridges of the winter hills, like a giant searchlight.
We ate our picnic lunch tucked into the trees at the top of the forestry then continued uphill as snow showers piled through. As we turned back to catch our train, the cloud finally lifted a little to reveal a view to the hills on the other side of the A9 and smudges of blue sky above.
The Inverness train deposited us in Kingussie in late afternoon. We walked north out of town, passing through birch woods in gathering dusk, and pitched the tents on a well kent spot at the top of the golf course. I should point out that it’s not actually on the golf course and anyway, this evening, the greens were as white as the surrounding hills.
Next day we headed into the Monadhliath as early morning sunshine gave way to a low ceiling of cloud that kept the day grey, like a perpetual twilight. However, we had a magical snowshoe walk, contouring up and over the ridge of Bad Each.
In the conditions there was a wild, Arctic atmosphere to this place and we saw not another soul which added to our sense of excitement and exploration. We weren’t alone however, as all around us were mountain hares in their white winter coats. They left their own snowshoe-shaped footprints in the snow.
In time, a small hut appeared in the near distance and we decided to head there for lunch, using the walls to get out of the wind and the snow showers which were starting to build. By an amazing stroke of luck, the door of the hut was slightly ajar, held loosely by wire, and we let ourselves in. On one hand, I felt slightly guilty entering somebody else’s property but on the other, it was open, we paused only briefly to eat lunch and there is a longstanding tradition in the hills of walkers using open shelters. The interior was wood panelled and simple with a table and a few comfy chairs. The windows were triple glazed and a wood burning stove was set against one wall. We were delighted to find the hut and it provided a wonderful lunch stop out of the gathering blizzard. In time, its discovery will no doubt pass into the legends of our hillwalking adventures.
Lunch over, we donned our shell layers and ski goggles to walk back in wind-driven snow. We followed our outward tracks which were already difficult to pick out - amazing given the size of the snowshoe prints. Before too long, we were re-entering the birch woods above Kingussie. In the shelter of the trees, the snowflakes fell gently down.
Where the snow thinned, we took off our snowshoes. It felt strange then for the rest of the walk to the train station not wearing snowshoes as we had become so accustomed to them. It felt even more strange returning to Edinburgh and walking across the snow-free city with huge snowshoes strapped to our packs.
Fact File
More photos on Flickr: click HERE
Public transport: Inverness train from Edinburgh/Glasgow stopping at Dalwhinnie and Kingussie
My routes: For Geal Charn, out of the station turned right along Ben Alder Road. At the end, crossed the railway by the level crossing and continued ahead. Took first track to the left then swung right along the south shore of the loch. Ascended the hillside up the far egde of the forestry. For Kingussie, from the station walked up to the main street, turned right then took Ardbroilach Road to the left. Eventually it passes Pitmain Lodge then continues as a track to the open hillside.
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