Corrour - Peter's rock

It had been donkey’s years since I’d walked passed Peter’s Rock. I’m in the area often enough but Peter’s Rock sits on the high track between Rannoch and Corrour, the old Road to the Isles, which passes to the north of the knobbly outcrop of Meall na Lice. I usually use the lower, rougher path, that crosses the empty quarters to the south of Meall na Lice. But this day the rock provided something to aim for when I was looking for a shorter walk, given that the area was under a foot of snow.

Peter’s Rock is marked on the OS map and is one of a cluster of large boulders that sit at the top of the rise above the south shore of Loch Ossian. It always seemed to me a slightly random spot to site a memorial but there it sits. Attached to the rock is a plaque commemorating Peter Trowell who died in the area in March 1979, aged only 29.  A newspaper report dated 28 March that year gives a little information about his disappearance:

“A search by a six man police team with dogs across the hills and glens to Corrour on Rannoch Moor yesterday failed to find any trace of Peter Trowell who has been missing for a week. Mr Trowell, assistant warden at Loch Lomond Youth Hostel, did not report for work last Wednesday. Inquiries at his home address confirmed that he had not been there nor was he at Corrour where he said he was going hill walking. A police spokesman at Fort William said last night that the area was wild and rugged and weather conditions were bad”

There seems to be no more information. I suppose the exact nature of the tragedy that befell Peter Trowell may now be consigned to history, while the poignant epitaph on his rock will be here for eternity. A reminder to those who walk this way that our lives are so delicately balanced. 

The names of landscape features on OS maps are usually very old and in use for generations. The name “Peter’s Rock” was on the first map I bought of this area which would have been in the early nineties. I no longer have my first map but I’m guessing that it would have been the edition from the mid eighties. Peter only died in 1979, so I’ve always been fascinated that the name of his rock was recorded so quickly on the map.

I sat a while at Peter’s Rock, looking out over the snowbound world around me. It was mid afternoon and I’d seen not another soul. Loch Ossian was stretched out below. Its water and fringe of trees were the only things in the landscape not white. The little hostel at the end of the loch looked idyllic today. Nestled in its copse of trees, its winter backdrop was snow-covered mountains.

The day was so still that I heard a raven’s wingbeats as it passed high overhead. Every now and then there were tantalising glimpses of the snow-capped hills in the Mamores to the west but mostly the tops were were obscured by swirling, silver clouds. The sun punched through here and there but it was as cold as steel.

The walk to Peter’s Rock was bookended by two winter wild camps close by. I’d arrived at Corrour on the late afternoon train the day before with no big plans. I’d no snowshoes either and didn’t fancy a plod through the deep drifts on the hills. So the focus of my trip was really enjoying the wild camping. 

My first camp spot was one I’d used many times. It sits on a bend in the river where the backdrop is one of my favourite hills, Leum Uileim. I love the hill’s graceful lines and its east ridge which looks steep and dramatic when you step off the train. The river runs gently over stones at the spot, making a pleasant babbling sound, and if I stand up outside with my morning or evening cuppa, I can watch the trains pass as they begin their descent to Loch Treig or labour up onto Rannoch Moor. On these clear winter nights, the snow reflects the light from the stars and moon so that I can still see the hills all around me, ghostly pale against the inky, night sky.

I love camping in the snow but on this occasion, it had drifted to a good few feet where I’d camped. I'd cleared some snow and stamped down what was left but every time I stepped outside of my tent to fetch water from the river, I sank knee deep in the stuff. So the next morning, I moved to a camp spot in trees which was free of snow and prettily perched on the shore of Loch Ossian. I had camped here once before, several years ago, with my old friend, Bart. We’d seen in the new year on its little beach and were glad of the shelter of the trees in the wilder weather of January. Today the colourful tones of the red bark and green lichen were a dramatic contrast to the monochrome world all around. Moving camp in the cold and snow had consumed a fair chunk of the short day, so the walk to Peter’s Rock was a good option to use what remained of it.

Corrour is a favourite haunt of mine and I’ve had some great times here. This little trip and the walk to Peter's Rock, had so far been enjoyable but with nothing especially memorable, relative to other trips. That was all about to change. Early on my last morning, I unzipped the tent at my camp spot beside the loch to see the water perfectly calm. A thin veneer of ice had formed further out. As I got out my tent, the air was crisp and clear with the sun just clearing the hills. I turned to look towards Leum Uileim at the head of the loch and was greeted by one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen. Leum Uileim, with its snow-covered flanks catching the morning light, was perfectly reflected in the still waters of Loch Ossian. I had never seen that view before; never considered before that the hill reflects in the loch. Then I thought about Peter’s Rock up on the hill. The view from there would be spectacular this morning and every morning like it.

The magic lasted about an hour before a breeze picked up and ruffled the reflection. Then the cloud gathered and descended down the flanks of the hills, obscuring Leum Uiliem and extinguishing the morning sun. After an indulgent, lazy morning at the tent, I packed up and walked back to Corrour in light snow showers to catch the lunchtime train home.

Fact file

Start/finish: Corrour train station

Public transport: Trains on the West Highland Line

Route: Exit the train station on the side of the station house and follow the main track east. Don't take the first track to the left but keep straight ahead towards the loch. Adjacent with the hostel, a track leaves to the right and ascends the hillside above the south shore of Loch Ossian. Peter's Rock sits near the top of the climb.
More photos on Flickr