Saturday 1 April 2023

Corrour - Leum Uilleum

Leum Uilleum is a rugged hill that rises to a shapely point above the isolated train station at Corrour on the West Highland line. Despite its isolation and lack of road access, it's usually a busy station as there are many trails and hills within striking distance and a remote hostel a short walk away. On this occasion however, being mid week at the tail end of winter, it was only me that got off the train. For the beginning of March, the hills were strikingly bare of snow, save for the higher tops. It's been a poor winter. But this didn't mean it wasn't cold and the day hung in a grey, icy grip. Arriving late in the afternoon, I only walked a short distance before making a basecamp below the hill. A nice spot for the tent on a bend in the river that I've used several times before. 

After a cold but calm night, I unzipped the tent next morning to the lightest of snow flurries. With no breeze the flakes fell gently and were mesmerising to watch. They'd blown through by the time I set off up the hill, ascending the north shoulder that sweeps to the top in a graceful arc. I love this route because once the steepest ground is cleared, the walk becomes an enjoyable high level amble to the top. It was easy going as well with the mud and bog half frozen. The pools and lochans, much like the day itself,  were stilled by a layer of ice. 

Higher up a smattering of snow lingered from the morning flurries. The day was colourless and the skies heavy with dense clouds. The view was extensive nonetheless and this is the beauty of Leum Uilleum. It's relatively isolated from other peaks so rewards with big panoramas. To the north, the Grey Corries ridge filled the horizon. To the west, the hulk of Ben Nevis remained mostly in cloud. Most impressive perhaps were the Black Mount hills, forming a formidable medley of rocky ridges to the south. 

I spent ages up on the hill as even high up there was barely a breeze. I wandered round the subsidiary tops and enjoyed the solitude, as beautiful to me as the view. I loved this high place on that day. The grey, gripping cold of late winter; the peace and emptiness of the mountains. 

I returned to the tent late afternoon for another night of watching the trains pass in the dark, the orange glow from their windows the only colour in the blackness.

Fact File
Start/Finish: Corrour station
Public transport: Glasgow to Fort William train stops at Corrour
My route: Left platform to the left and followed the well made path heading northwest before striking up the An Diollaid ridge after the path crosses the river.

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